Rust Converter recommendation?

Loctite Naval Jelly works very well.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-553472-Fluid-Ounce-Dissolver/dp/B000C016OC

Blacklane stole my thunder. I used to use OSPHO but lately could not find it.

I found the last gallon in the paint prep section of home Depot.

I keep it in a quart spray bottle and kinda spritz it on. Watch out on the eye and skin protection and the stuff will permanently etch concrete if you let it drip on it.

Years ago the Sherwin-Williams store recommended Skyco Ospho. It is not a paint. It is very thin like water and is liberally sprayed or brushed onto the rusted metal. Been using it at work with good results for years.

After one or two treatments the rust turns white or light gray. When dry you paint with the paint of your choosing. We use a good quality oil or alkyd base paint.

Loctite "EXTEND" EXTEND

Larry

The product you need is phosphoric acid. All of the rust converter products have it. It turns rust into a stable, black compound called iron phosphate. The excess product is sort of a blue-white compound that should be gently removed before painting or the paint won't stick. I often use a stiff brush or a rotary abrasive pad found in automotive and body shop stores. (Not sandpaper, but more of a scrubbing pad).

I have not had much luck with the spray-on products, since they just don't apply enough material. I usually use the brush-on product, which is water-soluble and quick-drying. Lots of products are readily available at automotive stores and big-box stores such as Wal-Mart and Home Depot.

The converted rust must be coated with a primer and paint.

Edit: I just looked at the Amazon reviews for POR-15 and it looks intriguing. Interesting that you have to etch clean steel or the product won't stick well.

POR-15 is what I would use. Very good experience with it restoring cars, including doing whole frames. Beware that it's permanent, don't get it on your skin and wear old clothes. Use a disposable foam brush.

If it is just starting to rust, or good solid rust without flaking or scaling, I have found Rust Oleum Rust Reformer works pretty well if you keep touching it up as necessary. The "Industrial" version seems better than the consumer version available at hardware stores or WalMart. V2100 Rust Reformer

Bobbo wrote:
Rustoleum Rust Reformer?

Junk.

That is a "reformulated" version which is nothing more than black primer/paint. Been there, done that.. Ended up putting four nice steel porch chairs out at the curb and let someone else deal with the rust.. Spent several hrs per chair scraping, wire brushing and light sanding to get the old leftover paint off then spray out and then top coat it.. Looked OK until the next summer and the rust was worse!

Rust-Oleum USED to have a good rust converter version which STARTED CLEAR and then turned black when ready to top coat.. Can't get it anymore.

If you want to use Rustoleum use the rusty metal primer which is RED in color.. But you will need to cleanup the metal pretty good..

Just be aware, many of the Rustoleum OIL BASED paints have been reformulated to WATER BORNE paints.. In some places you cannot buy oil based enamel paints any more.

enblethen wrote:
Some military use this.Naval Jelly
Zinc chromate is used normally on aluminum.

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