RV Electrical Troubles

Thanks for the update!

I checked the 40A reverse polarity fusses and they were both bad(even though they looked good). Replaced both and everything works.

Thank you everyone!

S' pose maybe he is gargling and tuning up for 0600 January 1st?

Check voltage at the battery cable terminals. Got 13.8 volts?

¿There is a master circuit breaker between the converter and the main fuse panel? I thought converters and fuse panels are integral?

Anyway the problem lies between the charger and fuse panel.

Silly me. I thought reverse polarity protection fuses were located between the BATTERY and the CONVERTER.

Jfitzger wrote:
(batteries are disconnected). Even with the batteries disconnected, shouldnt the output still be 13.6 Vdc?

Why and how are the batteries disconnected ?
Why are you testing things with them disconnected ??

I suggest that you re-connect everything and see if it all doesn't work as it should.

Look under the tongue of the trailer where the umbilical cord, battery cables connect to the trailers wiring. There should be a fuse or circuit breaker there.

MrWizard wrote:
you have a fuse or 12v thermal reset between the converter (aka charger) and the batteries, if you are not reading power from those wires, that thermal breaker or fuse is bad
look or a little silver box with (2) studs and wires, follow the positive wire (probably black) from the batteries where it goes under the TT
find the reset and replace it, probably a 40 amp, you can get one at any auto parts store

They look like this.

Well, if its dead at the DC panel, first place I would have checked for voltage is at the battery terminals. As it is now, you don't know if the batteries are dead or alive. And is the battery switch on ??

Like Joe417 posted. I would remove those fuses and check continuity across them with your ohm meter. Plus anytime you are checking voltage you do need to be sure your are picking up a proper ground or the negative side of the supply voltage. Picking up a wrong negative side or ground can become deceiving finding the problem. Fuses in negative and positive leads or bad grounds can lead people astray when measuring voltages.

you have a fuse or 12v thermal reset between the converter (aka charger) and the batteries, if you are not reading power from those wires, that thermal breaker or fuse is bad
look or a little silver box with (2) studs and wires, follow the positive wire (probably black) from the batteries where it goes under the TT
find the reset and replace it, probably a 40 amp, you can get one at any auto parts store

Yes, you should have power (13.xx) on the battery cables even when disconnected from the battery if you are plug into 120V.

You said the fuses appear good but you measure 0V??? You have to measure between the 2 fuses not across the fuse. To measure across each fuse you'll need to use the ohm meter function with the power off.

If your converter is working and the reverse polarity fuses are good, I would bet on a bad auto resetting inline breaker(or fuse). It should be in the line somewhere between the converter and where it connects to the campers 12V ckt.

They are usually an approximate 1" x 3/4" box and have two heavy studs for mounting the wires. In our TC, it's located in the step to the cab over behind the fuse box.