RV Panel Outlet with 50-Amp Receptacle

the wire diagram is printed inside the door in the picture. Just follow the instructions. I made my own 50 AMP plug but it isnt out in the weather. Mine is inside a machine shed and I just run my cord through a hose port in the wall.

Extra reading material....
RV Electric

ScottG wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
60 amp 240 from a 60 amp double breaker in your main panel... You'll need to run a 4-wire (3 plus ground) 6GA copper line at a minimum, 4 GA if the run is very long. If you run aluminum, use 4GA instead of 6GA. Make sure the neutral and ground are NOT bonded at the sub-panel.

Best answer.

This is what I was looking for!

Thanks!!

73
Kent
NC6B

Nicholsfamily05 wrote:
We have a 50 amp set up at our house and we purchased the receptical that allows us to close the cover all the way. It's nice keeps it out of the elements but makes a great place for. It's to make a nest. That part sucks!

But one leg should be 120volt and the other 110volts with the neutral and a ground with a 50 amp breaker. Pretty cheap to do if you can yourself, if not make sure you get an electrician that knows what they are doing.

I'm not following the 120V and 110V concept :H

As for the electrician part.......50A is normal for an electrician its the 30A RV circuit that they mess up....wire it 240V Dryer/Welder vs 120V

Nicholsfamily05 wrote:
We have a 50 amp set up at our house and we purchased the receptical that allows us to close the cover all the way. It's nice keeps it out of the elements but makes a great place for. It's to make a nest. That part sucks!

But one leg should be 120volt and the other 110volts with the neutral and a ground with a 50 amp breaker. Pretty cheap to do if you can yourself, if not make sure you get an electrician that knows what they are doing.

I hope you had an electrician do this because it's apparent you don't understand electrical supply. Hot legs to neutral are a nominal 120v. The voltage may vary some depending on electrical system load but it's considered 120v. There is no nominal 110v electrical supply.

Should be 240 volt divided You want the NEUTRAL to be the same gauge as the HOT wires The wiring inside the box will take care of the 120/240 volt division feeding one 120 volt leg to the TT-30 and the other to the GFCI 15/20 and both of them to the 50 as designed.

DO NOT Swap wires or bad things can happen

dougrainer wrote:
Regardless of what it states, you will NOT be able to close the door when the 50 amp male plug is plugged in. Does that concern you? If INSIDE then no big deal. But if exposed to the elements, I would NOT want to leave the door open. Doug

Doug...not saying you are wrong, but I have the same CE box, only RV30, not 50, and it is designed for outdoor use. My 30A cord easily fits in the slotted area in lower box, with door closed, and slid upwards for waterproof seal. I think the box pictured, has more depth than it appears. I do realize the 50A cord is larger than my 30A.

Jerry