Searching for appropriate Solar Charger

Almot wrote:
That graph is a generator charging. When solar controller gets voltage to ABS, it will stay there 60 minutes (typically, in cheaper controllers), and then current drops to a trickle.

When you charge slowly the batt voltage doesn't rise as fast so it stays in bulk longer.

Almot wrote:
That graph is a generator charging. When solar controller gets voltage to ABS, it will stay there 60 minutes (typically, in cheaper controllers), and then current drops to a trickle.

Westend is too humble. His roof-mounted hinged 2-axis tiltable contraption is elegant, check the pics on the list of installs.

Thanks, I'm happy to accept that Humble Award. Wait, is that even possible? :B

That graph is a generator charging. When solar controller gets voltage to ABS, it will stay there 60 minutes (typically, in cheaper controllers), and then current drops to a trickle.

Westend is too humble. His roof-mounted hinged 2-axis tiltable contraption is elegant, check the pics on the list of installs.

The question came up: How can I separate two modules? Take the piano hinge off and replace with two stainless steel butt hinges. Get the hinges with a removable pin. The hinges can be attached directly onto the module frame but a better attachment (more durable) is to back up the hinge area with another piece of aluminum. For quick tear-down, get pins that have an ergonomic grab of some sort. I used hinges like this for my tilting mechanism on a 235W module and it is working well.

http://www.solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.html

Pick your camping location, panel facing south, and see what a horizontal/flat panel will collect, tilt it a tad and it gets more, move it and it gets more. The beauty of potable with their excess long setup time (plug and play, everything included, not crimping too, tinning, cutting and on and pn) and unhingeability.

BFL13's ugly graph shows a thirsty 2x6v batteries will accept large current. @ 90% charge they still want 12A.

Yes, he meant Buddy, Coleman etc. Not a good choice for many reasons, but it does run without 12V.

And, - don't get excited about 60 AH a day from 120W panel. The panel can generate it on a good summer day, but the battery won't take it. 7A*6hrs + shoulder sun = 50 AH or more, but the battery will need 7A for a few hours only, and then its acceptance rate slows down.

There are certain tricks that boondocker with limited energy budget can use. Like charging/running laptop and similar loads when batteries are either full, or the acceptance rate dropped down to the level when the panel generates more amps than battery can take.

NinerBikes wrote:

Of course, only you will know what your battery usage is with a true power audit, but either of these should get you in the ball park. Using LED's is the first, most important step to dropping your amp hours power consumption and usage down to something manageable. Heater fans are another huge suck, running the blower motor. Get propane parabolic dish heaters instead.

Are you referring to heaters like the "Big Buddy propane heater" ??

NinerBikes wrote:
... lights, and I am at about 24 amp hours... add in the 22" lcd TV, and the 175W inverter sucking about 4 amps an hour, and I am at about 40 amp hours over a 24 hour period.

Yes. 35 AH without TV. Most people wouldn't know how to live on less than 90 AH a day. 40 AH they call here a "tent" camping" :)... Hijacking a little, - 35 AH is what my solar collects on a dark cloudy day. 490W though. Generator... what generator?

NinerBikes wrote:
40 or 50 ah off of 225 AH is nothing,

Yes. 2-3 days of this is still within 50% of 2*6V, without solar or any other charging.

ottor wrote:

NinerBikes wrote:
Solar Blvd, 120 watt portable solar panel kit... $190
Google it.
Yes, I bought one, yes, it works as intended. Put a piece of rug or old carpet strip underneath it every time, so you don't scratch things up in the rocks aiming it 2 or 3 times a day for peak efficiency.

Exactly what I was looking for - Is this a unit that attaches to the batteries, or is there some 'installation' involved ? (BTW, I've looked at that source, and can only find what you described having a retail price of $449 on sale for $288 - I've EMailed them for their response..)

Appreciate your help!

120W portable solar panel kit, plug and play.

160W portable solar panel kit, plug and play.


Either one will do the job. Aim the 120W 3x a day, and if in sunny areas, you should be able to pull 7 amps for 6 or so hours a day, plus more on the shoulder, maybe 50-60 amps of charging any time past the spring and before the fall solstice. Winter time you might come up less, days are shorter.

The 160W version, multiply by a factor of 1.333 for amps you receive. The controller on the back of this is known around here as an "RJ Special" I've had zero problems with mine, I am aware of one person that may have gotten a bad one here recently on RVnet, or he hooked the terminals up backwards to the battery and roasted something. Solar BLVD made good and replaced the controller quickly.

You can NOT just rely on solar, day in, day out, unless you are located in the Southwest... a good charge controller like a Progressive Dynamics PD9245 or PD9260, and a good generator like a Honda EU1000i or Eu2000i series generator for the PD9260 would be your primary source worst case scenario recharging, system. When it's all sunshine, you don't use it at all, or briefly first thing in the morning to do your bulk charging, and then let the solar panels top things off to 100%

I have a 21 ft travel trailer, I converted all the indoor lights to 48 lcd warm white panel lights on T-10 connectors.

With no lights running, parasitic load over 24 hours is 18 amp hours. Add in the lights, and I am at about 24 amp hours... add in the 22" lcd TV, and the 175W inverter sucking about 4 amps an hour, and I am at about 40 amp hours over a 24 hour period. Too much for a single group 24 DC battery, fine if you have a pair of 24 DC or group 27DC batteries, or a Trojan T1275 at 150 Ah, or a pair of GC-2 batteries at 12v @ 225 Ah. It's about what you keep in reserve. 40 or 50 ah off of 225 AH is nothing, or for the T1275 at 150AH.

Of course, only you will know what your battery usage is with a true power audit, but either of these should get you in the ball park. Using LED's is the first, most important step to dropping your amp hours power consumption and usage down to something manageable. Heater fans are another huge suck, running the blower motor. Get propane parabolic dish heaters instead.

I posted a link on another RV site to the Solarblvd kits when they had them on sale for black friday. I know a handful bought them and seem to be pleased.