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GravelRider's avatar
GravelRider
Explorer II
Aug 07, 2020

Setting up my solar system

I'm in the planning stages of adding solar to my travel trailer.

I currently have a battery bank of two 6V flooded lead acid GC batteries in series that is 215 Ah 12 volts. I am planning on adding two more of the same batteries in series-parallel for a 430 Ah 12 volts (215 Ah usable) battery bank. I then plan to add 800 watts of solar. Right now I'm leaning toward using four of the Renogy 200 watt panels.

I plan to wire in parallel, as from what I've read, if I'll be camping in shaded/partial shaded spots, which I usually do, parallel gives better output in these conditions. However, if the panels have internal diodes, does this make this line of reasoning not applicable?

I'll then combine these at a combiner box. Is a combiner box necessary? Or can I just do a T-branch coupler, assuming the amp rating is high enough? And when run in parallel, am I correct in assuming I'll need a fuse/breaker at each positive cable from each individual panel? And if so, is there a combiner box that also has breakers?

From the combiner box, I believe I also need to have a properly rated breaker/fuse to the charge controller, right? And I am planning on a 60 amp MPPT charge controller, that should be correct for 800 watts panels, right?

From the charge controller, I'd need a final breaker/fuse between the controller and the battery, right?

And I'd be using proper gauged wire, based on run length and amperage at each station, probably 10 ga --> 4 ga --> 6 ga. I'd have to measure distances and consult an ampacity chart.

I'm planning on putting the charge controller in the front underneath storage compartment of my Grey Wolf 22MKSE, as this is the closest covered compartment to the batteries. I'm thinking actual line length would be about 5-7 feet from the charge controller to the battery. I don't know where the best place to put the combiner box. I'm thinking having it right next to the controller would be best, in order to cut down line length.

I'm pretty comfortable with electrical in general, but this will be my first go at solar, so please critique my plans and add any advice, it will be appreciated.

Thanks!

EDIT: I should add that the trailer came with a factory installed 50 watt panel with a piddly charge controller. I'll be completely removing this from the system entirely.

EDIT AGAIN: Oh, and what do I do about the AC-DC converter. Will the solar charge controller work seamlessly with this?

And I don't need an inverter at this time. The only thing I really need that is AC when I'm not plugged in is the air conditioning, which I would only use if I had shore or a generator

76 Replies

  • mr_andyj wrote:
    I run mine in series.
    What is it that makes parallel better in the shade?

    Put your MPPT as close to the batteries as possible. You have 18 volts from your panels, then the controller drops it to 12-14 range.

    Breakers are also good as when you disconnect things you want to disconnect the panels first, not the battery. A breaker makes this easier.

    While at it put a breaker between battery and the truck plug so the plug is not powered up all the time, while in storage, which can lead to corroding on the plug.


    From what I read, if one panel is shaded, they all perform at the level of the lowest-performing panel (the shaded one) if in series. This is more of a concern with partial shading, which is often how my campsites are. Again, I'm new to this, but that's how I understand it.

    I will put the charge controller as close as I can get to the batteries, which will be the front understorage compartment. I'll end up with an extra couple of feet of wire just because of where the lines out will run, as I'd rather have extra wire than have to put a new hole in the camper.

    I had never considered a breaker to the 7-way before.
  • KD4UPL wrote:
    You do need a fuse or breaker for each panel in parallel. The reason is so that if one panel shorts out internally the other 3 don't try to force all of their power thru that panel. That would exceed it's amp rating and possibly start a fire.
    I would absolutely use a breaker style combiner box. I like to be able to just throw or reset a breaker instead of mess with fuses. MidNite Solar makes both combiners in different styles, I would use their MNPV6 with 4 appropriate DIN rail style breakers.
    You will want a breaker on any wire coming off of your battery terminal so you will need one between the battery and the charge controller. Having one between the combiner and the controller is convenient but not incredibly necessary depending on where your combiner is located. If the combiner is on the roof I'd install a breaker on the PV input near the charge controller. If the combiner is right beside the charge controller I probably wouldn't bother.
    Your RV's existing converter will play just fine with the solar system. No modification necessary.


    Thanks for the reply. I'll look into the breaker/combiner you mentioned.

    Good to hear the existing converter is good to go as is.
  • Serial va parallel with significant panel shade makes no difference. The difference which is often not understood is partial shade with bypass diodes. My panels have 3 bypass diodes so I call that 3 sections. If one section has shade it's bypass diode shorts out that section, "shorted" meaning the panel still produces the amps at 2/3 the voltage. Fast forward to 3x panels with 9 panel sections. One shaded section and I have 8/9 the power, 2 is 7/9, 3 is 6/9 equivalent to 1 parallel panel out of action. If the 3 shaded sections are on 2 panels then it's 2/3 for serial and 1/3 for parallel. I know this can be a lot to digest. And for the technical I'm aware I've glossed over the very small voltage loss for "shorted" (actually reversed biased) diodes.

    I've posted MPPT 60 charging graphs with partial shade. For simpicity 9 sections and 90V or 10V per section. The graphs clearly show the 10V changes as the partial shade changes. One shows charging at 20V increasing in 10V increments as the sun rises and the shade changes (this was leafy shade). The MPPT 60 app produces the csv file and Excel the graphs for reference.
  • As posted fuses or CBs on 3 or more panels in parallel. The most common combiner box is on the roof with heaver wire to the controller. Otherwise a lot more wire to the combiner near the controller.

    Morningstar like many controllers says: both off, battery on, panel on OR both on, panel off, battery off. I have a switch for my panels and a CB for the battery. 800W is fine, the manual says if you over panel the controller it will cut off at 60A.

    I'll predict that you will not ever get 60A. On a crystal clear Phoenix summer day at 1:00 I added heavy loads which lowered the battery voltage to under 12.0V and got 53A with 750W of solar. Clearly with 14.0V+ there will be less amps.

    I have 3x 250W in serial. Very efficient wiring. Array to batter 1.6% voltage drop. I have 62' of 10ga UV wire from the panels to the controller which includes the 3' panel pigtails. 0.4V drop which is virtually nothing for the 92 Vmp.
  • I run mine in series.
    What is it that makes parallel better in the shade?

    Put your MPPT as close to the batteries as possible. You have 18 volts from your panels, then the controller drops it to 12-14 range.

    Breakers are also good as when you disconnect things you want to disconnect the panels first, not the battery. A breaker makes this easier.

    While at it put a breaker between battery and the truck plug so the plug is not powered up all the time, while in storage, which can lead to corroding on the plug.
  • You do need a fuse or breaker for each panel in parallel. The reason is so that if one panel shorts out internally the other 3 don't try to force all of their power thru that panel. That would exceed it's amp rating and possibly start a fire.
    I would absolutely use a breaker style combiner box. I like to be able to just throw or reset a breaker instead of mess with fuses. MidNite Solar makes both combiners in different styles, I would use their MNPV6 with 4 appropriate DIN rail style breakers.
    You will want a breaker on any wire coming off of your battery terminal so you will need one between the battery and the charge controller. Having one between the combiner and the controller is convenient but not incredibly necessary depending on where your combiner is located. If the combiner is on the roof I'd install a breaker on the PV input near the charge controller. If the combiner is right beside the charge controller I probably wouldn't bother.
    Your RV's existing converter will play just fine with the solar system. No modification necessary.

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