Forum Discussion

path1's avatar
path1
Explorer
May 06, 2014

Silicone and new technology?

Replaced my "gravity water fill" today. I fixed the usual way. Put some putty tape around the back and screwed back into place.

Talking to parts guy as to what type of silicone to use just to cover up putty tape so that in a of couple years from now there is not a black ring of dirt where sticky putty tape collected dust and dirt, I asked him what is the latest. He tossed me some "nuflex" 313 and said "here is what we are now using, with the new rv finishes can't be to careful, some of them, the finish falls off by itself". This stuff must be better than the $3.00 a tube RTV. MSDS papers don't tell much.

Personally I don't like silicone but have used it in a couple limited places on rv. Like the water fill and the city water and above window putty. Paid $23.00 for the tube and thought to myself, this is nuts. So doing some work on here came up with a thread, which I think is a very good thread if one has to use caulking and what caulking to use.

Here is my question. Is the info listed in link still good today or is it outdated? The post was in 2006 and many new products have came onto market. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17938490/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm

If article is outdated, what are you using on what and why.

Thanks.

10 Replies

  • therink's avatar
    therink
    Explorer
    May 06, 2014
    I use proflex and have to problem using it. I found the trick is to do a small area at a time and coat your finger with dish soap when smoothing out the bead. Keep some rags handy and use painters tape along areas where you want the edge very neat. Also, a little proflex goes a long way. Always apply a very thin bead.
  • westend's avatar
    westend
    Explorer
    May 06, 2014
    The Geocel polymer sealants are stiffer and have more density than the usual caulks, including silicone. This makes them a bit harder to tool after applying. One trick is to heat the tube before application. This will soften the material a small bit before application.

    I use a lot of different caulks and sealants in my business and inevitably, a rookie worker will just make a mess of things when first using caulks and a gun. One trick is to cut the spout small, I only cut enough to insert the wire tool to puncture the tube. Or, if I need a large bead, to cut more spout but always to cut it smaller than the result I'm after. I tool nearly all beads as I believe I get better adhesion and it looks better. For a small length, I'll use a wet finger. If I do a whole house, I'll use a caulk tool or a spoon. To control speed or amount of sealant dispensed, you need a caulk gun with variable dispensing, not the cheap ones with a notched rod. After a few hundred tubes, you'll know exactly how much to pull the trigger.

    Silicone is the Devil, don't use it on your RV. It makes an excellent sealant for mating surfaces held by compression like oil pans and valve covers.
  • mobilefleet's avatar
    mobilefleet
    Explorer
    May 06, 2014
    actually keystone is one maker that recommends silicone on side surfaces. I'd never use it on a roof, use dicor there. I've used proflex and don't doubt its sealing capabilities but it's way too hard to apply and comes out too tacky already from the tube. And don't get it on your finger unless you wanna scrub your first layer of skin off to remove it! different strokes, but biscuit must be a an old pro with caulk gun, because when I used proflex it just keeps coming out of the tube even when the gun pusher is pulled back. Even though more expensive than regular silicone tubes, I use the smaller hand tubes rather than a gun tube as it's easier to operate and control flow. I'd say try both Sidney, and see what you like
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    May 06, 2014
    Sidney.......

    Depends
    If I am doing a small section............spit on finger
    If doing more........mineral spirits

    With the ProFlex I rarely have to use anything. It flows so nice that I can control the size of bead and leave a smooth surface just with tip of caulking tube.
  • path1's avatar
    path1
    Explorer
    May 06, 2014
    Old Biscuit...I was editing when you posted. Might make more since now.

    Thanks
  • sidney's avatar
    sidney
    Explorer
    May 06, 2014
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    First off........

    SILICONE has no business ever being used on an RV especially exterior.

    Silicone will not even stick to itself.
    Areas where Silicone have been used must be cleaned with a silicone remover (solvent) to get rid of residue before anything else can be used.

    And it's a lousy choice for exterior.

    Dicor (self-leveling for roof, non-leveling for sidewalls/vertical)
    Geocel ProFlex for sidewall/vertical

    I prefer ProFlex.
    Just like the way it flows, smooth beads, lasts and is flexible.


    OB

    I understand Proflex is rather tacky compared to silicone.

    Got any tips for smoothing out Proflex after applying a bead?
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    May 06, 2014
    It's still 100% Silicone.....just a 'fast cure' type which maybe WHY some RV types use it. Skins over in 7 minutes & tack free in 15 minutes.

    It's still Silicone.

    TDS LINK
  • path1's avatar
    path1
    Explorer
    May 06, 2014
    Old-Biscuit wrote:
    First off........

    SILICONE has no business ever being used on an RV especially exterior.

    Silicone will not even stick to itself.
    Areas where Silicone have been used must be cleaned with a silicone remover (solvent) to get rid of residue before anything else can be used.

    And it's a lousy choice for exterior.

    Dicor (self-leveling for roof, non-leveling for sidewalls/vertical)
    Geocel ProFlex for sidewall/vertical

    I prefer ProFlex.
    Just like the way it flows, smooth beads, lasts and is flexible.


    That is what surprised me, when rv dealer tossed it to me. I was wondering if newer type silicone has improved over the years and maybe better than listed above.

    I like how proflex goes on and the job it does. I must say I do not like removing proflex, a real pain.

    Also tube has writing on top "Winnie#131264". When I google that I ended up at Winnebago Ind and they've been using it atleast 10 years
    Here is 2014

    http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Sealant/184022a5.pdf

    and here is 2004 "sealant call out sheet" http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2004/04_400_sealant.pdf

    Not saying it is good because they use it, just saying might be good stuff.
  • Old-Biscuit's avatar
    Old-Biscuit
    Explorer III
    May 06, 2014
    First off........

    SILICONE has no business ever being used on an RV especially exterior.

    Silicone will not even stick to itself.
    Areas where Silicone have been used must be cleaned with a silicone remover (solvent) to get rid of residue before anything else can be used.

    And it's a lousy choice for exterior.

    Dicor (self-leveling for roof, non-leveling for sidewalls/vertical)
    Geocel ProFlex for sidewall/vertical

    I prefer ProFlex.
    Just like the way it flows, smooth beads, lasts and is flexible.

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