SiO2 Batteries and High Amp Draws

BFL13 wrote:


They say you can run them down to Zero SOC many times no problem, but I have seen ads for AGMs saying the same thing.

So you can run them down past what would trip the inverter to just run ordinary low amp RV loads ok

The voltage drop is also from wiring not just from the batteries, so if I had fatter wiring and all that, the inverter could go lower in battery SOC before tripping, so my result could be different from another guy's with the same battery

I count the "0.45C" as using the C at the time, not the rated C when at 100% SOC, so watch for that when reading my numbers. Eg the 90 amps when the 200AH bank is at 110AH is 90/110 = 82% draw the way I do it.

I only took it to the inverter alarm at 11v not to the cut off at 10.5v so I don't know how much farther down in SOC it would go to get to 10.5

They have a somewhat higher voltage per SOC than Flooded batts so that helps with going lower in SOC before tripping the inverter too.

ya they say you can ocasionaly run them down to 0, but for maximum life stay above 50%. I do like this as it is a saftey net for the average person that kills batteries by acadently letting them get down to 0.

but I have to be honest , I am not that impressed with the current draw you got on them. yes it is the same as the four, 6V I have in my 5th wheel, maybe a tiny bit better, but two 100amp LFP will handle the same voltage and stay above 12V to aproximatly 10% capacity so I don't see an advantage there against LFP, but ya it is definatly a step up from normal batteries.

there is a place for SiO2, but I think there price now puts them out of reach for most, aside for the people who actualy do need them like PT, but even there he has been saving for 3 years. I think they are now the most expensive per AH of the main battery types, last time I checked.

I guess the way I look at these, and yes I did look at them and weigh the pros and cons when PT first started advertising them. I looked at upgrading to them but the only advantage I would have got is the cold weather usability and a slightly higher amp draw capacity. at almost 700 bucks per 100 AH battery x 4 it was just way to far out of my price range. I thought about them again when I went to upgrade the camper so I would have paid 1400 buck for 200ah capacity and to get maximum life I could use 100AH of that capacity so no gain over the cheep GC2 i stuffed in there as a temp measure. I ended up going with 300AH of LFP with a 100Amp BMS. I didnt need anymore amp draw capacity , there was an option for a 125amp or a 150amp BMS. but in the camper I am also worried about weight and size so about 1000 bucks I did the new camper setup.

but like I said if weight , size are not a concern and you do really cold weather camping its a option.