Solar cable thru fridge vent
Planning out my solar system and I see most go thru the fridge vent. Are you drilling a hole from the side and running cable down shaft or using fittings? I read that you stay on opposite side of fl...
Forum Discussion
DAS26miles wrote:
My 60 feet of solar extension cable 10 awg came today with MC4 connectors. My plan was to cut in half and attach each to the panel.
Yes, this is how it's done - order 2 times longer and cut in half.
DAS26miles wrote:
So since it's just one panel, I don't need a box and buss bars.
Yes. But It's good to have a Baby box from Midnite Solar (or Big Baby Box), and install breakers and buss bars in there. I have Pos bus, Neg bus, Load breaker, Controller breaker - all housed in the Big Baby, and there is one vacant slot left (planned for panel breaker but it's not much necessary).
DAS26miles wrote:
Maybe I'll try what was suggested and glue on the fittings to the side of the vent. If I want to add another panel, I have the branch connectors. Not going over 200 watts and getting a 30 amp controller.
You may get away with no fittings at all. Fix cable to the roof with a blob of Dicor, and then with a caulk or Dicor where it exits the fridge cabinet.
Yes, another panel with PWM controller means getting MC4 Y-splitter.
DAS26miles wrote:
NOW I think my cable is too thin and I should only run the 10 AWG to the vent and then go with heavier awg to the controller
I don't think it's too thin for 200W with PWM, but there is no need to guess. Run the numbers through Voltage drop calculator. Allow 3% V-drop and use one-way length, i.e. if you use 60ft cable cut in half, put 30ft in calculations.
With MPPT I wouldn't worry even with 5% drop because controller would boost the voltage automatically, but with PWM let others speak. Me thinks that with PWM V-drop is not important as long as you're getting at least 15V to controller, because stupid PWM will cut everything else off :)
