Solar Options

MC4 Connectors disconnect very easily.

TucsonJim wrote:
MC4 Connectors disconnect very easily.

So MC4 connectors from the panels into a combiner box near the edge of the roof so I can reach it from a ladder, then connect my cable there and run to the battery compartment. This sounds easy enough for me.

Anderson Power POLE Disconnect connectors are popular in the Amateur Radio world...

Solar PANEL Quick disconnects would be nice as well - Could use panels on the roof or setup on the ground...

I saw one setup where the solar panels was the widow shades... They were on hinges where you could move up and down and keep in the sun path.

Have also read about the flexible panels that you can stick almost anywhere...

Roy Ken

Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.
Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power ;)

SkiSmuggs wrote:
My wife is adamant about not putting solar on the roof,

Then let her come up with an alternative.

smkettner wrote:
Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.
Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power ;)

This is a rear kitchen unit with batteries up front so I don't have that option. With the panels at the front of the roof, down the outside wall by the bedroom slideout and in via the landing gear while dry camping will work, just not a permanent installation and one that allows for a clean removal if we ever trade it in.
The DW likes the idea of camping off grid to save money, but doesn't want me spending money or altering the appearance of the fiver to do it. LOL! So the conversion to 2GC batteries was okay, but the addition of 12v receptacles wasn't as she can see them, even though I had to point them out and they can be removed without evidence once I get some done that look professional. In that regard, solar panels on the roof are okay if she doesn't see me do it, but wiring through the ceiling would be a problem. I am sympathetic with that as I'm not sure I can make a clean cable run through the roof and don't want a mess either.

Module wiring pulled through plastic EMT. I have the wire entering the side of my trailer close to where all the electrical distributes. I have no plans to move this even if I sell the trailer. If I did want to remove the EMT, it is held by two clamp screws,easy to remove. Just thought I'd throw out another way to accomplish the run from roof to controller.



Good luck!

Better to just stick with portable, forget the roof.

I replaced the MC4 connectors on my panels with Anderson Powerpole SB50 connectors. The connectors are exposed to the elements and I have had no problems for four years. There are rubber boots available for added protection.

My panels are mounted on the side of my coach and I came through the wall with the wires. I used a small junction box and sealed it up with silicone.

SkiSmuggs wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.
Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power ;)

This is a rear kitchen unit with batteries up front so I don't have that option. With the panels at the front of the roof, down the outside wall by the bedroom slideout and in via the landing gear while dry camping will work, just not a permanent installation and one that allows for a clean removal if we ever trade it in.
The DW likes the idea of camping off grid to save money, but doesn't want me spending money or altering the appearance of the fiver to do it. LOL! So the conversion to 2GC batteries was okay, but the addition of 12v receptacles wasn't as she can see them, even though I had to point them out and they can be removed without evidence once I get some done that look professional. In that regard, solar panels on the roof are okay if she doesn't see me do it, but wiring through the ceiling would be a problem. I am sympathetic with that as I'm not sure I can make a clean cable run through the roof and don't want a mess either.

Our 5er came pre-wired for solar, so a roof panel could be wired down the fridge vent and reach the batteries up front, with the controller in between.

I also have a ground based solar panel and wanted to run that and the roof panel. I had a controller for each "set" (roof and ground.)

If you examine your fridge outside vent cover on the side of the RV it has slots in it big enough to pass #8 wires through. I also drilled two holes in the platform the fridge sits on that lets wires to the battery lugs in the power centre under the fridge that go to the battery in front.

So with the roof panel going to the batts via the pre-wiring, I was also able to run the ground based panel to its controller behind the fridge out of the rain. Then the controller-battery wires went down through the holes in the fridge platform to the battery lugs on the DC panel (some have those on the converter itself) putting that solar set in parallel with the converter, and also with the other solar set at the battery bank.

I could even run the roof panel wires down the fridge vent to the behind the fridge controller and not use the pre-wiring. Lots of combos possible.

I ended up using a cable hatch in the front cargo bay door for the ground based solar instead of via the fridge vent so the ground set's controller is closer to the batteries, but that was a refinement. It worked ok with the controller farther back behind the fridge.