While batting around ideas on expanding a portable solar set up, it occurred to me there may be other options like using the portable to expand roof mount. My wife is adamant about not putting solar on the roof, but we haven't discussed why. I think it is more the expenditure than anything else and what I have in mind may only be a little over $200.I could put a couple of 100w panels on the roof of my fifth wheel, but not do the permanent wiring so that I would just connect when off grid. If off grid in the shade, I could connect the 100w portable for additional charging. I have a Solar30 controller on order which I plan to mount in the basement near the battery bank. The problem is connecting the roof panels to it when needed and how best to do that without flapping cables. I am not personally comfortable with drilling through the roof for cabling, but okay with the mounting part of it. I could run the cables off the roof and in through the landing gear area to Anderson connectors from the controller, but how to do a clean rooftop connection is where I could use some help. I haven't used MC4 connectors yet, so I don't know how easily they disconnect. I suppose SB50 connectors inside a junction box on the roof might work.

MC4 Connectors disconnect very easily.

TucsonJim wrote:MC4 Connectors disconnect very easily.So MC4 connectors from the panels into a combiner box near the edge of the roof so I can reach it from a ladder, then connect my cable there and run to the battery compartment. This sounds easy enough for me.

Anderson Power POLE Disconnect connectors are popular in the Amateur Radio world...Solar PANEL Quick disconnects would be nice as well - Could use panels on the roof or setup on the ground...I saw one setup where the solar panels was the widow shades... They were on hinges where you could move up and down and keep in the sun path.Have also read about the flexible panels that you can stick almost anywhere...Roy Ken

Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power ;)

SkiSmuggs wrote: My wife is adamant about not putting solar on the roof, Then let her come up with an alternative.

Solar Options | Good Sam Community

KD4UPL
Explorer
Feb 24, 2015
Use the fridge vent, plumbing vent stack, or penetrate the roof. Seal it properly, and fish the wires around by removing speakers and lights for ceiling access. Did your RV happen to come with a solar pre-wire and already have a connector on the roof. Mine did I couldn't ever find the other end of the wires so I had to run my own anyway.
Fubeca
Explorer
Feb 24, 2015
I went through the roof - and dropped down through an interior cabinet and then into the front pass-through where the controller and inverter live. Be creative - there is almost always a solution!
Harvey51
Explorer
Feb 24, 2015
The side mounted, aimable panels are most interesting, Tom.
SteveAE
Explorer
Feb 24, 2015
Hi,

As many others have suggested, if at all possible go for roof mounted panels.

Some advantages of roof mounted panels are:
- Charge while on the road, stopped for lunch, or parked at home
- Security of the panels
- Mount and (almost) forget it
- No need to find storage space for portable panels
- Not constantly fussing with them to track the sun
- Possibly shorter distances involved which lower wiring costs

If your wife is concerned about water intrusion (a valid concern), find a reputable installer and have then do the work.

Portable panels can produce more power if properly positioned and adjusted throughout the day. But, is this what you really want to spend your day doing?

Whatever you come up with though, you will enjoy solar.

Steve
jrnymn7
Explorer
Feb 24, 2015
OP said,

"This is a rear kitchen unit with batteries up front so I don't have that option."

Why not? It's jut a matter of dropping down thru the fridge roof vent, like others have suggested, then thru the floor behind the fridge, and running cable from back to front, under the rig. All out of sight. Leave the connections at the panels connected at all times.

Size your panel-to-controller wiring appropriately, allowing for minimal voltage drop, using this:

scroll down

(For example, I'm running 30' of 6 ga. cable from two 140w panels to controller)

Install the controller out of the weather, and close to the batteries. Include a circuit breaker (or switch) near the controller, between the panels and controller, for opening (i.e; disconnecting) the panel circuit when making adjustments to the controller.

Likewise, wire the controller to batteries with appropriate cabling, circuit breaker, and good quality terminal connectors.

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