Solar panals
Can some one tell me how solar panels work? I have one in a class A that I bought used. Put a new battery in it and dont know how it works. Does a switch need turned on to make it work?
Forum Discussion
49 Replies
- How do I post pictures?
harold1946 wrote:
All charge controllers in the Power guard line have charge indicator lights, and some have a digital didplay. No need to climb on the roof with cardboard.
If the charge indicator goes off at night and comes on in daylight, the panel is working.
It is doing at least that much....:)Almot wrote:
reddfox77 wrote:
No thats not my controller...
This doesn't matter much. They all look and work similar, in this power range.
Disconnect the panel cables from controller as above. Check the voltage. If there is 17V, part of the system before controller works.
If there is a voltage from panel, reconnect the panel cables to controller, disconnect the battery cables from controller, check the voltage ON THE CONTROLLER "battery" contacts - not on the battery. If there is a voltage, controller works and indicators are dead, replace the controller because it's a pain to use it without indicators. Any controller with the same Amp rating will do. 3x5 ft panel sounds like 170-200W, so the controller should be around 15A rated. To know exactly what controller you need, lift the panel and check the label on the bottom, it should tell the wattage - AND VOLTAGE, this is important too, see the last paragraph.
What pianotuna suggested with carboard, makes sense though. You will know whether the whole system works - but if it doesn't, you won't know which part doesn't. So - get multimeter and go ahead, the "cardboard way" or not, it's up to you.
It is possible that the previous owner didn't have a slightest idea what he was doing, and installed 24V panel with a cheaper controller that can handle only 12V (called PWM controller), then controller would be either dead or output very little power.
I'm gonna say that maybe the solar panel installer didn't know what he was doing....Guy had receipts and owners manuals for every thing in the MH....- Well after looking things over here is the wire routing...solar panel to a toggle switch where a external plug joins for a portable solar panel.... wire then goes to power guard...wire then goes to battery....wire from battery goes to frame for a ground and the other goes forward to the other coach battery...from there they go to what looks like a voltage regulator...them who knows where....So now what does every one think? I can post pictures if it helps...
reddfox77 wrote:
No thats not my controller...
This doesn't matter much. They all look and work similar, in this power range.
Disconnect the panel cables from controller as above. Check the voltage. If there is 17V, part of the system before controller works.
If there is a voltage from panel, reconnect the panel cables to controller, disconnect the battery cables from controller, check the voltage ON THE CONTROLLER "battery" contacts - not on the battery. If there is a voltage, controller works and indicators are dead, replace the controller because it's a pain to use it without indicators. Any controller with the same Amp rating will do. 3x5 ft panel sounds like 170-200W, so the controller should be around 15A rated. To know exactly what controller you need, lift the panel and check the label on the bottom, it should tell the wattage - AND VOLTAGE, this is important too, see the last paragraph.
What pianotuna suggested with carboard, makes sense though. You will know whether the whole system works - but if it doesn't, you won't know which part doesn't. So - get multimeter and go ahead, the "cardboard way" or not, it's up to you.
It is possible that the previous owner didn't have a slightest idea what he was doing, and installed 24V panel with a cheaper controller that can handle only 12V (called PWM controller), then controller would be either dead or output very little power.- Hi,
Lights can burn out. If you have a meter check the voltage at where the panels attach to the controller. Then check the output to the battery on the controller. harold1946 wrote:
All charge controllers in the Power guard line have charge indicator lights, and some have a digital didplay. No need to climb on the roof with cardboard.
If the charge indicator goes off at night and comes on in daylight, the panel is working.
Harold that it does...how ever nothing comes on....hmmmmm a mystery...Almot wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Renae,
On a bright sunny day, cover the panel with cardboard.
Measure house battery voltage.
Remove the cardboard.
Measure the house battery voltage again.
If the second reading is higher than the solar panel is working.
...or, if this is easier than climbing the roof, on a bright sunny day disconnect panel wires from controller and measure volts and amps on these wires. It should read something like 17V, 5A, give or take a little. Make sure you disconnect the "panel" wires, not "battery" wires - there should be markings on the controller, and connect each wire to its original post. If you reverse the polarity, the controller might go up in smoke. Though I think it's cheap, $50-60 or so.
Controllers of this kind usually have red and green indicator. If green is on, it's charging. Is this
your controller ?
No thats not my controller...- All charge controllers in the Power guard line have charge indicator lights, and some have a digital didplay. No need to climb on the roof with cardboard.
If the charge indicator goes off at night and comes on in daylight, the panel is working. pianotuna wrote:
Hi Renae,
On a bright sunny day, cover the panel with cardboard.
Measure house battery voltage.
Remove the cardboard.
Measure the house battery voltage again.
If the second reading is higher than the solar panel is working.
...or, if this is easier than climbing the roof, on a bright sunny day disconnect panel wires from controller and measure volts and amps on these wires. It should read something like 17V, 5A, give or take a little. Make sure you disconnect the "panel" wires, not "battery" wires - there should be markings on the controller, and connect each wire to its original post. If you reverse the polarity, the controller might go up in smoke. Though I think it's cheap, $50-60 or so.
Controllers of this kind usually have red and green indicator. If green is on, it's charging. Is this
your controller ?
