Forum Discussion
Almot
Mar 26, 2014Explorer III
Ed is right about cable to the battery. When using a controller without a separate voltage sense wire - a feature usually not available in cheaper controllers - your cable to the battery should better be short and beefy. Otherwise the voltage drop will cause permanent under-voltage on the battery terminals.
Controller without voltage sense wire will assume that its output voltage is delivered nicely without losses all the way to the battery, which is of course not the case. For example, when controller output is 13.5V @10A, a 4ft double cable #10 will cause the 13.5V output to drop to 13.3V on the battery terminals. Which means, your batteries will never be properly charged. Get #4 cable if you can, a big 50ft roll will still cost less than a new battery.
But, if all this is only for floating full batteries at 1A, then the same 2*4ft wire #10 will cause less than 0.05V drop, and this won't affect the floating.
Controller without voltage sense wire will assume that its output voltage is delivered nicely without losses all the way to the battery, which is of course not the case. For example, when controller output is 13.5V @10A, a 4ft double cable #10 will cause the 13.5V output to drop to 13.3V on the battery terminals. Which means, your batteries will never be properly charged. Get #4 cable if you can, a big 50ft roll will still cost less than a new battery.
But, if all this is only for floating full batteries at 1A, then the same 2*4ft wire #10 will cause less than 0.05V drop, and this won't affect the floating.
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