Solar questions?

barnaclepete1 wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Prostar does not look to be programmable. Temperature compensated 14.4 volts with 14.9 equalization every 25 days will keep your battery in tip top shape.

Thanks. What would be the most cost effective but well made pwm controller that could handle 2 100W panels.

I would recommend that you look into the Trimetric system. Bogart engineering makes a nice TM2030 battery moniter that plays REAL well with its SC2030 solar charge controller. And sense it is a 30 amp controller if (and more likely "when" your needs grow) You could add more panels as needed. You could ease the cost by phasing the system in.
the SC2030 then when you can afford it add the TM2030 for more powerful charge control and a battery monitor. I suggest you download the manuels and study what it can do for you.

smkettner wrote:
Prostar does not look to be programmable. Temperature compensated 14.4 volts with 14.9 equalization every 25 days will keep your battery in tip top shape.

Thanks. What would be the most cost effective but well made pwm controller that could handle 2 100W panels.

Prostar does not look to be programmable. Temperature compensated 14.4 volts with 14.9 equalization every 25 days will keep your battery in tip top shape.

NinerBikes wrote:
With that Interstate battery, eventually, you might want to upgrade to a charge controller that puts out more than 14.4V to your Interstate group 24 battery. Something along the lines of 14.8-15.0v at the battery terminals.

Can a Morningstar Prostar 30 be configured to put out 4.8?

That is one handsome combiner box! Nicely done work throughout, as well.

With that Interstate battery, eventually, you might want to upgrade to a charge controller that puts out more than 14.4V to your Interstate group 24 battery. Something along the lines of 14.8-15.0v at the battery terminals.

You might be surprised how well the 24 does with 100 amps of solar.
I would give it a go as is.

My solar kit from Renogy arrived and i am starting off with the 100amp package. Ive decided that i may want to add to it later on so i made myself a combiner box out of a pvc j-box and a busbar cut in half. i had to drill a hole into the roof, i applied Eternabond first then drilled the hole then installed the box with a healthy buttering on the back with Procore flexseal. After i applied Dicor Lap sealant.




I mounted the controller in the closet directly above the battery tray. i added a 30 amp fuse on the positive wire from the solar panel just before the controller. I also added a 30 amp fuse on the positive cable right before the battery from the controller.


I had absolutely zero knowledge before starting this project. Thanks to this site and the people who share their experiences and knowledge i was able to make it work. Now to order another 100 amp panel or two. Also need to upgrade my battery storage, i am using the original that came with the camper and its a interstate marine/rv group 24. definitely not the greatest. My options are limited because the battery storage area is quite small 9" deep x 15" wide x 20" tall.:C

thank you ALL! That helps me out a lot. you guys are great1

I used an in-line fuse between the panel and controller, and the controller and the battery.

Fuse between controller and battery for safety (battery can put out lots of dangerous power). Fuse between panel and battery mostly as convenient way to disconnect panel (and for whatever else might go wrong that I haven't thought about).

Cheap at auto parts stores.

Doug