Solar voltage help...
I just connected my solar kit (160w cmp12 controller)and the voltage while connected to the rv batteries reads 16.55v. Is this normal or too high? Sorry but im new to this.
Forum Discussion
Oregon - no, it won't keep it "always" at 14.4. I never had a controller that basic :), but I think this is a On-Off charger, not 3-stage charger. Here is the manual.
Probably similar to that no-name gizmo that came with your kit, only it will work. Voltage will be rising from 13.xx to 14.4, and then it shuts down. There is no one-hour stage #2 at 14.4V called Absorption, and there is no stage #3 called Float.
If you want a brand name 3-stage, you have to pay upwards of $80 for either MS, or Xantrex, or Steka, or other PWM chargers.
Some 3-stage chargers may have setpoints not adjustable, ex. Bulk 14.4 when your batts prefer 14.6.
Check Trace/Xantrex C12 maybe. Though you have to buy an optional remote temp-comp sensor - a good thing, better than on-board, but it costs another $20 and it looks like there is no on-board temp-comp there, so you HAVE to buy a remote sensor.
Westend is right, controller should be close to batts for the reasons of correct temperature measuring (when temperature sensor is on-board, not on-battery), and to prevent energy losses in cable too long. Your 15ft cable might be TAD long, so you can cut it shorter later if a shorter length still works for your setup, but this isn't terribly important at this low current.
Probably similar to that no-name gizmo that came with your kit, only it will work. Voltage will be rising from 13.xx to 14.4, and then it shuts down. There is no one-hour stage #2 at 14.4V called Absorption, and there is no stage #3 called Float.
If you want a brand name 3-stage, you have to pay upwards of $80 for either MS, or Xantrex, or Steka, or other PWM chargers.
Some 3-stage chargers may have setpoints not adjustable, ex. Bulk 14.4 when your batts prefer 14.6.
Check Trace/Xantrex C12 maybe. Though you have to buy an optional remote temp-comp sensor - a good thing, better than on-board, but it costs another $20 and it looks like there is no on-board temp-comp there, so you HAVE to buy a remote sensor.
Westend is right, controller should be close to batts for the reasons of correct temperature measuring (when temperature sensor is on-board, not on-battery), and to prevent energy losses in cable too long. Your 15ft cable might be TAD long, so you can cut it shorter later if a shorter length still works for your setup, but this isn't terribly important at this low current.
