Soldering instead of crimping

Bianchi wrote:
Hi, Would there be any reason not to solder battery connections versus crimping? The application would be for a solar charging system.

Since you didn't specify wire size, I'm going to assume you're talking about larger size wires because you mentioned battery connections.

I'd crimp those and if the wire is #6 or larger, you'll need a beefy crimper. Also smear some anti-oxidant compound on the wire ends before crimping.

For more info, check Jack Mayer's web site.

I am wondering if anyone has used Naval Jelly to clean oxidized stranded copper automotive wire 14-16ga prior to soldering? It's phosphoric acid. Has anyone gotten good results ie: ability to tin entire wire end not just part of the end? Thanks

NYET on the "Naval Jelly". It's purpose is to convert one form of oxide to another.

Use a new razor sharp utility blade to scrape the strands to bright copper. You need to revolve the wire as you proceed to get all the oxides off. I use a paste flux after scraping. A few millions of successful soldered joints has convinced me I have not been doing this wrong in the last 50+ years. Zero failures sort of amplifies my conviction.

Thanks Mexico Wanderer for the info.

I just bought: 'Rosin Paste Flux, 2 oz' by Miniatronics Corp on Amazon

I found the metal flux brushes 10 for $2.99 at Harbor Freight

Solder and shrink tube....never have to deal with it again.

Michael

I hear the argument "SOLDER MELTS AT 360 DEGREES! WHAT GOOD IS THAT?"

Trust me, if a wire temperature soars to 360 degrees, you'll be busy elsewhere than with whether the solder has become soft.

Soldering done correctly will have a good mechanical connection first even if it is just a linesman's splice. Then use heatshrink to weather proof it. Don't forget to slide the tubing over one of the wires first. Don't ask me how I know that. :S

I have had wire antennas up in
the air for almost 30 years with no problem using that technique.

Alas. I do not have to ask how you know that.... After all, WE know that, and quite likely learned the same way.

Can you tell old triceratops here when they changed the name from "Western Union Splice" to "Lineman's Splice"?

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I hear the argument "SOLDER MELTS AT 360 DEGREES! WHAT GOOD IS THAT?"

Trust me, if a wire temperature soars to 360 degrees, you'll be busy elsewhere than with whether the solder has become soft.

Acutally there are lots of different melting points for solder depending on the usage so really no on temperature "fits" all applications.

I would tend to agree with your statement, in fact MOST insulation will start to fail around that same temperature so if you have a wire hot enough to melt solder the insulation WILL be near failing :E

I personally would not want to be in that situation...

I get a kick out of this forum, my Tech school taught that soldering connections were the best mechanical and electrical connections.

Followed that advice for nearly 25 yrs without any problems, then sign up to this forum only to find out from many experts here that I have been doing it all wrong all these years :S

I guess that is why for many years I made money from repairing BAD CRIMP CONNECTIONS, fixing them by SOLDERING them :B

I will stick with soldering..