Storage RV lot with GFIC breakers

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Turn off breaker and replace GFCI with standard outlet, problem solved.

Umm, no, "problem not solved".

That is is the same as the old penny in the fuse box type of thing, just a work a round until something else goes wrong.

Not to mention OP's issue is when the RV is in a "storage lot", from that I take the OP does not "own" the lot and is renting/leasing space for their RV.. So if I am correct, that is tampering with the landlords electrical system.

Tampering by removing GFCI which has the potential of being in a "wet" location will make the landlords electrical system no longer be in compliance with not only NEC requirements but the power companies requirements. The only exceptions to this is if the the circuit is terminating with a 30A 120V RV outlet or 50A 120/240 RV outlet but the storage lot owner would have to have that done by an electrician..

15A and 20A 120V outlets serving any location which there may be water or dampness contact like kitchen, bath, garage and yes, outdoor outlets are required to have GFCI protection. The only "exception" to that rule has been for "refrigeration" use, but that if I remember correctly required the circuit terminate to one single outlet (IE no duplex or multiple outlets) solely for the refrigerator or freezer.. A RV is not a "refrigeration unit" as it has a breaker panel plus many other electric devices and outlets.

RVs can generally "coexist" on outlets protected by GFCI as long as there is no internal electrical leakage to ground which results in enough current imbalance that the GFCI monitoring the circuit trips.

The idea is the same current drawn on the hot wire, must be the same as what is being returned on the neutral wire..

If your device leaks some current to the ground (any ground path other than the neutral wire) it needs to be dealt with.

On RVs the typical suspects are the fridge heating element, the water heater heating element, the converter and the A/C unit.