Suburban SF-30 Furnace - Current draw
After a short 15 minute search looking for a replacement 12 Vdc motor for my furnace with no luck. Maybe one of you has been down this road before and could point me in the correct direction The si...
Forum Discussion
Huntindog
Yes - the goal is to reduce current draw from the house battery, which is simply two 6Vdc GC batteries - no plans or space to make any changes there.
This motor exchange is one of the last currently planned modifications (to date completed about 150 modifications to the rig, with maybe 30 or 40 of them related to the DC power systems). I hope the motor exchange works as planned but if not I learned something along the way. Yes I plan on furnace air flow and power consumption measurements both before and after.
Yes I have 100% LED's no incandescent or florescent lamps anywhere inside the rig. Yes I have an accumulator tank on the water pump, low draw Fantastic fans, 550 watts of solar power, proactive alarm/warning system which drives LED's and sonalerts for both high and low temps/voltages, 2025RV Trimetric, Sure sine 300 inverter, etc.........
This last camping session the furnace had to run all day for two full days evening/night temps in the low 20's and day time in the low 40's. I use a 3 degree offset programmable digital thermostat to reduce the furnace cycling. Say 48 hours of furnace "on" with a running time of say 20 hours I hope to save 60 to 80 amp/hours again if not, O' well I tried and it did not work but I learned something along the way and the project kept me busy. I GREATLY enjoy this kind of challenge and have a shop with very impressive fabrication capabilities as well as the tools and experience required.
Chris
Thanks - I was not aware the other items of the furnace drew as much as a full amp of current. However the motor remains the power hog. Guess that's the reason I see 7.5 to 8amp draw when running. My Norcold 621 frig gas valve draws <400ma so I assumed the furnace valve would be about the same.
Yes - the goal is to reduce current draw from the house battery, which is simply two 6Vdc GC batteries - no plans or space to make any changes there.
This motor exchange is one of the last currently planned modifications (to date completed about 150 modifications to the rig, with maybe 30 or 40 of them related to the DC power systems). I hope the motor exchange works as planned but if not I learned something along the way. Yes I plan on furnace air flow and power consumption measurements both before and after.
Yes I have 100% LED's no incandescent or florescent lamps anywhere inside the rig. Yes I have an accumulator tank on the water pump, low draw Fantastic fans, 550 watts of solar power, proactive alarm/warning system which drives LED's and sonalerts for both high and low temps/voltages, 2025RV Trimetric, Sure sine 300 inverter, etc.........
This last camping session the furnace had to run all day for two full days evening/night temps in the low 20's and day time in the low 40's. I use a 3 degree offset programmable digital thermostat to reduce the furnace cycling. Say 48 hours of furnace "on" with a running time of say 20 hours I hope to save 60 to 80 amp/hours again if not, O' well I tried and it did not work but I learned something along the way and the project kept me busy. I GREATLY enjoy this kind of challenge and have a shop with very impressive fabrication capabilities as well as the tools and experience required.
Chris
Thanks - I was not aware the other items of the furnace drew as much as a full amp of current. However the motor remains the power hog. Guess that's the reason I see 7.5 to 8amp draw when running. My Norcold 621 frig gas valve draws <400ma so I assumed the furnace valve would be about the same.
