Suburban Water Heater Anode
When I replaced the anode, I could only thread the new one maybe 2 or 3 threads. Any idea why they are so hard to thread? I am worried it wont seal enough
Forum Discussion
^^^ X2!!!
The Anode Rod is too heavy to keep it from "drooping" once most of it is inside the heater's tank. So I do the same thing, just use black electrical tape to get the socket to fit tight enough onto the head of the Anode that it all stays lined up with an extension bar.
Then wrap some Teflon Tape around the threads and get ready to install it. I like to hold the tape roll and let it spool onto the fitting by turning the fitting clockwise.
The tip ^^^ to rotate it backwards till you feel the threads drop into place is nothing shy of Excellent. I always do that with self-tapping "sheet metal" screws going into Plastic as well as Sheet Metal.
Here's a tip for Sheet Metal: Instead of Drilling the Pilot Hole, Punch it with an awl if you can. That'll drive some of that thin metal inward for more contact with the threads of the Screw.
The Anode Rod is too heavy to keep it from "drooping" once most of it is inside the heater's tank. So I do the same thing, just use black electrical tape to get the socket to fit tight enough onto the head of the Anode that it all stays lined up with an extension bar.
Then wrap some Teflon Tape around the threads and get ready to install it. I like to hold the tape roll and let it spool onto the fitting by turning the fitting clockwise.
The tip ^^^ to rotate it backwards till you feel the threads drop into place is nothing shy of Excellent. I always do that with self-tapping "sheet metal" screws going into Plastic as well as Sheet Metal.
Here's a tip for Sheet Metal: Instead of Drilling the Pilot Hole, Punch it with an awl if you can. That'll drive some of that thin metal inward for more contact with the threads of the Screw.
