Suburban Water Heater Troubleshooting
My Suburban SW10DE Water Heater will not work off of propane. What would be the procedure to troubleshoot the thermostat. I see the two terminals and was going to ohm test these but with little wire r...
Forum Discussion
Propane side uses 12V DC so the easiest way to test is turn the switch ON
12V DC (+) from DC Dist Panel (fuse) goes to ON/OFF Switch then to DC Junction Box (left side on back of tank) Red wire-----DC power from switch, Blue wire-----DC going to Light at ON/OFF switch), Yellow-----ground)
From Junction Box
Red wire goes to High Limit T-stat (top one that is resettable---trips on 170*F).......from Hi Temp thru wire to Normal Temp T-stat (lower one...opens at 130*F). Then Red wire goes to control module
Control Module.......right side on back of tank
Send 12V DC to gas valve and at same time to spark electrode.
Gas valve stays open for 6-8 seconds while spark occurs...main flame lights...........gas valve stays open until normal t-stat opens.
Main flame doesn't light off and 'prove' then gas valve closes. Control module will try 3 X then locks out (fault light)
Gas valve would have 12V DC on both solenoids during spark electrode firing. Brown wires......black to ground
Solenoids should ohm at 40......inboard one (closes to metal pan) gets weeped on by T&P Relief Valve above it
So trace the DC....where does it stop?
ON EDIT:
I was typing response while you were testing.
Guess you have found problem
HERE is some info about solenoids used.
And HERE is a gas valve on sale.
12V DC (+) from DC Dist Panel (fuse) goes to ON/OFF Switch then to DC Junction Box (left side on back of tank) Red wire-----DC power from switch, Blue wire-----DC going to Light at ON/OFF switch), Yellow-----ground)
From Junction Box
Red wire goes to High Limit T-stat (top one that is resettable---trips on 170*F).......from Hi Temp thru wire to Normal Temp T-stat (lower one...opens at 130*F). Then Red wire goes to control module
Control Module.......right side on back of tank
Send 12V DC to gas valve and at same time to spark electrode.
Gas valve stays open for 6-8 seconds while spark occurs...main flame lights...........gas valve stays open until normal t-stat opens.
Main flame doesn't light off and 'prove' then gas valve closes. Control module will try 3 X then locks out (fault light)
Gas valve would have 12V DC on both solenoids during spark electrode firing. Brown wires......black to ground
Solenoids should ohm at 40......inboard one (closes to metal pan) gets weeped on by T&P Relief Valve above it
So trace the DC....where does it stop?
ON EDIT:
I was typing response while you were testing.
Guess you have found problem
HERE is some info about solenoids used.
And HERE is a gas valve on sale.
