Surge protection INSIDE the camper?

Can anyone here comment on whether the Hughes Autoformer protects against surges and spikes? While they are expensive, I was fortunate to get a used one off Craigslist for only $150. I'm sort of under the impression that the transformer serves to isolate the incoming power from the outgoing power. Or at least, the little electronics I self-taught myself back when I was doing sound for some bands suggest that.

If it turns out I'm wrong about that, well, it wouldn't be the first time . . .

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Can anyone here comment on whether the Hughes Autoformer protects against surges and spikes? While they are expensive, I was fortunate to get a used one off Craigslist for only $150. I'm sort of under the impression that the transformer serves to isolate the incoming power from the outgoing power.

The newest versions offer limited surge protection, IIRC older models did not. Has nothing to do with the transformer. If I were to invest in a Hughes Autoformer I'd also place a surge protector (not an EMS) before it.

The latest offering from Hughes includes the same (lousy) surge protection as the top of the line units (ems) from PI and SG i.e. just some MOV. Obviously it does not disconnect from the power when it is low. I'm not sure what the Hughes does for an open neutral which is where ems from PI and SG shine.

The Sola Basic also has no surge, so I added some,and thanks to Mexicowanderer it is top of the line protection.

Make sure the used unit is working and add a dollar store surge protector to it. I suspect that Hughes may not offer repairs to older "2nd hand" units.

Optimistic Paranoid wrote:
Can anyone here comment on whether the Hughes Autoformer protects against surges and spikes?

If it does, then all electronics have that best protection. Because galvanic isolation is also inside electronics. The theory is that millimeter gaps between wires with 'block' what three miles of sky cannot. The myth lives on because so many advertising lies promote 'blocking' as effective protection.

Protection starts by first defining the anomaly. Nothing inside will 'block' or 'absorb' this anomaly. This anomaly is a current source. That means voltage will increase as necessary to blow through anything that foolishly tries to 'block' it.

Best protection for each electronics is already inside electronics. Concern is for the anomaly that can overwhelm that protection. Nothing adjacent will 'block' it. Other solutions, well proven by over 100 years of science and experience, can provide that protection. And not all devices, called surge protectors, even claim to do that.

Many other completely different and unrelated anomalies are also called surges. The term is subjective. So even lying can be promoted as truth. Even anomaly, sometimes called surges, must be discussed separately.

This one anomaly took how many paragraphs to only introduce the effective solution? Honesty literally takes that much. And includes numbers.

That galvanic isolation rated for how many volts? A valid recommendation will discuss that and other numbers. Or should be ignored. Galvanic isolation routinely inside electronic appliances can be 1000 and maybe less than 2000 volts.

What protection does a plug-in protector provide? Ignore any recommendation that does not always say so with numbers. It is often inferior to what already exists inside appliances.

westom wrote:
A protector on the pole will also protect from one anomaly that a hardwired unit will not.

What anomaly will a unit on the pole protect you from that a hard wired unit will not?

SoundGuy wrote:
... regardless of whether it's a portable or hard wire version the best place to wire in an EMS is where the main service cable feeds the trailer's converter input buss bar. That's usually quite easy to do - inside the trailer just locate where the main service cable enters the trailer, cut the cable, and wire in the EMS

Uh-huh... Under the fridge, in a 12" tall, 26" long rabbit hole off the floor. Behind the converter. Sure, easy ;)...

But... - yes, this is the best place.

SoundGuy wrote:
... regardless of whether it's a portable or hard wire version the best place to wire in an EMS is where the main service cable feeds the trailer's converter input buss bar. That's usually quite easy to do - inside the trailer just locate where the main service cable enters the trailer, cut the cable, and wire in the EMS

Almot wrote:
Uh-huh... Under the fridge, in a 12" tall, 26" long rabbit hole off the floor. Behind the converter. Sure, easy ;)...

But... - yes, this is the best place.

That's exactly where my converter is. In my case a few feet of 10 gauge cable feeding the converter input ran over to a junction box where the main service cable entered the trailer so that's where I wired in my EMS. Alternately, if I had insisted on wiring it in right at the converter I'd have simply removed four screws and pulled it forward out of it's nest in order to access the back side - no biggie at all. :B

Bobbo wrote:
What anomaly will a unit on the pole protect you from that a hard wired unit will not?

Transients that do damage by seeking earth ground such as and not limited to lightning.

westom wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
What anomaly will a unit on the pole protect you from that a hard wired unit will not?

Transients that do damage by seeking earth ground such as and not limited to lightning.

If you say so. Of course, nothing will protect from lightning. Personally, I would rather risk "(t)ransients that do damage by seeking earth ground" than losing the EMS to theft. Nothing is totally risk free. You have to choose the risk you are more comfortable with.

I wasn't overly concerned about theft but installed a hardwired EMS because:

1. It's always connected, nothing extra to plug in or store.

2. It protects the cord and connectors up to it's input.

3. The remote is mounted where it's very visible and so easy to monitor amps and volts or any faults.

The cost was $0 considering it's 14 years old and in the second rig. Recommend the PI hardwired units.