surge protector

Add up the cost of new A/C, TV's, Refrig electrical components, chargers and etc. and compare the cost between a good surge guard and replacement of these items. Then make your decision. An $80 unit won't protect you from low or high voltage or miss-wired pedestals.

Are you talking about a "surge protector" like this surge protector or "power protection" like this power protection?

Some people tend to use the generic term, surge protection, for both types but there is a HUGE difference. For example, an EMS power protection unit will shut down if a pedestal has an open neutral or on low voltage, whereas a surge protector will not.

Considering how much a power protection unit cost versus the big cost of replacing appliances and electronics that can fried, it's cheap insurance, especially if you plan to travel a lot and will end up in unknown campgrounds. It only has to happen once....

If you search this Forum you will get lots of responses. Some have RVed for a lifetime and never needed one. BUT the more big rigs that stay in more outdated campgrounds the more low voltage protection one will need. We have one hard wired next to the A/C circuit breaker box. We also carry two spare tires, road protection, box of tools, spare water pump...

I also have an entry level MH with no surge or voltage protection, but after my last trip out I will be installing a hardwired EMS system. I got lucky and did not fry anything after noticing the voltage jumping around due to an open neutral line. The cost of the 30A Progressive EMS system is small compared to the cost of new components. JMO

I too will caution there are surge protectors and spike supressors which are often called, in my opinion improperly, surge protectors (Alas it is the standard practice though).

I have both.. Spike suppressors are good at clipping spikes, such as when a motor starts or stops. but in a true surge.. Not so hot (Turn into firecrackers in fact).

A true Surge protector, will have an indicator that is more than an "idiot light" it will be a alpha-numberic digital readout.. That is the easiest way to tell 'em apart.

mine gives me voltage and current on L-1 and L-2, (it is a 50 amp model) and the error code should it shut me down. Lots of info.

do not buy the $90 special. buy a $250 and up multi function surge protector.
bumpy

Hi,

If you are in a 50 amp rv by all means spend your funds on the progressive unit. If you are in a 30 amp rv there is less need.

Personally, I boon dock and urban dock. I always check the outlet before I plug in anywhere.

It may be better to look at surge protected autoformers, before using something that cripples the use of the electrical system by cutting off the power at what may be too low a voltage to prevent damage to electric motors. My comfort level is 109 volts or above.

kill-a-watt

watt meter



Outlet tester.

outlet tester



According to ANSI C84.1-1995 (R2001) any voltage below 110 volts for long term, or 106 volts for short term, may very well damage things in your RV (most commonly air conditioners, but anything could be damaged).

and I would suggest getting a multi function surge protector with a bypass feature. especially if it is one that is hard wired.

bumpy

After advice from the good folks on this site I bought a ems by progressive. Just used it for 3 weeks in Fl. Amortized over the long haul it is cheap ins. I " feel " better now when hooking up, and that's what is all about. I'm sure it will save me more than I spent at some point in time. I too have a little TT with just the basics. LT warranty too.

Don't forget about your home base site, not just campgrounds. I had my Progressive 50A EMS shut me off a couple of months ago at my home base site due to high voltage. I am in a residential area, no old campground wiring, and my EMS shut me off at 133 volts. It seems we had a failing transformer that served me and 8 or 9 residential homes. I'm the only one that knew there was a problem.

Well worth the $$ in my opinion.