Suspected Converter Problem
Hey guys, back again. Hoping to gain some insight into an ongoing problem we've had this summer. RV is a 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum AX6 365FLTS. The rv came with a factory installed WFCO 8855 ...
Forum Discussion
For this example just think converter instead of inverter, same deal here:
When I had the inverter to battery set up with an inverter that has two pos and two negs this all came up about splitting the amps. Using a two- battery bank---
If you put a pos and neg to each battery, then each battery supplies 1/2 the amps the inverter is drawing (in theory)
the same wires also act as parallel links between the two batteries, so you don't need another set of wires for that.
OR, you can put two pos and two negs across the bank per Method 2, and now you do need the parallel links. You don't have to worry if each is doing exactly half or just a little from one and a bunch from the other due to various possible reasons.
If you go with the first way, as soon as you get your Trimetric shunt in the mix, now you can't get a Method 3 situation, because the two negs now go to the shunt one end and then another fat wire goes from shunt to battery.
EDIT--the circuit breaker on the pos should be at least a 60 amper now that you will be getting full amps across it from the converter. Often that fuse or breaker is OEM undersized because they know their wiring makes it impossible to achieve full amps.
When I had the inverter to battery set up with an inverter that has two pos and two negs this all came up about splitting the amps. Using a two- battery bank---
If you put a pos and neg to each battery, then each battery supplies 1/2 the amps the inverter is drawing (in theory)
the same wires also act as parallel links between the two batteries, so you don't need another set of wires for that.
OR, you can put two pos and two negs across the bank per Method 2, and now you do need the parallel links. You don't have to worry if each is doing exactly half or just a little from one and a bunch from the other due to various possible reasons.
If you go with the first way, as soon as you get your Trimetric shunt in the mix, now you can't get a Method 3 situation, because the two negs now go to the shunt one end and then another fat wire goes from shunt to battery.
EDIT--the circuit breaker on the pos should be at least a 60 amper now that you will be getting full amps across it from the converter. Often that fuse or breaker is OEM undersized because they know their wiring makes it impossible to achieve full amps.
