Suspected Converter Problem
Hey guys, back again. Hoping to gain some insight into an ongoing problem we've had this summer. RV is a 2004 Fleetwood Terry Quantum AX6 365FLTS. The rv came with a factory installed WFCO 8855 ...
Forum Discussion
BFL13 wrote:
Thanks for answering my questions! So the converter has a #8 to the neg junction as well as the #4? My question was how did you get both those from the converter if the converter has only one neg terminal?
You don't need that #8 there anyway, if that is how it is.
The chassis ground with an inverter is to reduce interference with television and radio, according to my Vector inverter's manual. I don't know what the similar chassis ground does for a converter set-up. I don't think it is "bonding" as with 120v set-ups, this being DC. (Pray now to the internet gods that nobody on here saw the word "bonding" and we get off on an endless debate about that! :( )
What amp size is that breaker on the positive side?
No, there is no #8 to the converter negative terminal anymore. There used to be, but I replaced that one with the #4. Once I did that, I then had a #8 wire sitting there that was connected to the frame ground on one end and nothing on the other (formerly the negative terminal on the converter). My point was that rather than remove that wire entirely by unbolting it from the frame, I landed the other end on the ground junction block to provide an additional ground path to the frame.
I did the exact same thing with the wire that formerly ran from the negative battery terminal to the frame. Left the frame side intact and landed the other end at the junction block.
These two wires supplement the new #4 I ran from the junction block to the frame.
My thought process was that the cable was already there and terminated at the frame, so it was minimal work to terminate it at the junction block and provide parallel paths for even lower resistance to ground.
Breaker is already (surprisingly) a 60A.
