Switch panel vs campervan's 12V DC system
Hi everyone, I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250. I've added some 27W LED lights : 4 top front, 27W x 4 = 108W/12V = 9AMP 2 lower front, 2...
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10 AWG to the switch panel. 14 AWG to the devices (lights). There is no good reason to complicate wire gauges and choose multiple gauges. Larger wire is more robust and less chance of problems.
Heat shrink all connections with color coded heat shrink. In the event of a parted wire, replacement with the correct polarity will be much easier.
Fusing each circuit is much more elegant as a short of one device won't effect the others. The price is not that much greater. You could even install a small fuse block for ease of connection. The main feed to the switch panel will also require a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery.
Yes you will connect a (+) phase and a (-) phase to the switch panel. Each device's power will have a (+) phase from the switch panel and some means of connecting (-) phase connection. TYpically the (-) phase is connected to the vehicles body and hence, to the frame. An alternative is to capture all (-) phase and feed that back directly to the battery. That is a better system as it eliminates contact corrosion as a potential issue. It is also more work.
If you were closer, I could make you a present of 1K ft. of AWG 14. I have a few reels lying about. As it is, a reel of THHN AWG 14 is about $40, stateside.
Heat shrink all connections with color coded heat shrink. In the event of a parted wire, replacement with the correct polarity will be much easier.
Fusing each circuit is much more elegant as a short of one device won't effect the others. The price is not that much greater. You could even install a small fuse block for ease of connection. The main feed to the switch panel will also require a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery.
Yes you will connect a (+) phase and a (-) phase to the switch panel. Each device's power will have a (+) phase from the switch panel and some means of connecting (-) phase connection. TYpically the (-) phase is connected to the vehicles body and hence, to the frame. An alternative is to capture all (-) phase and feed that back directly to the battery. That is a better system as it eliminates contact corrosion as a potential issue. It is also more work.
If you were closer, I could make you a present of 1K ft. of AWG 14. I have a few reels lying about. As it is, a reel of THHN AWG 14 is about $40, stateside.
