Testing trailer brake controller....
Been working on this for days. I'm about ready to start screaming. (FYI, I am not in a good mood and any trolls looking to unload shaming or sarcasm or just generally embark on some kind of self-serv...
Forum Discussion
You need to be looking for DC Voltage not DC Current.
The BRAKE CONTROLLER will produce a DC VOLTAGE output to each of the Brake Magnets.
If you are providing 12DCV output then each Brake Magnet will draw around 3AMPS of DC Current.
The Brake controller settings allow you to only provide enough DC Voltage so that the brakes do not drag but slow you down accordingly.
My settings is around 5-6 on the controller screen is somewhere around 6VDC being applied to the brake magnet when the brake pedal is pressed. When using the manual slider I can get around 12VDC going to the brake magnets on my OEM Ford setup...
If you have a mulitmeter set for MILLIAMPS and place the leads across the DC Voltage source it will blow your meter fuse. When using Milliamps setting the multimeter has to be in series with the DC load and the DC source to read the DC Current all of your brake magnets are drawing. For a dual axle this could be around 12AMPS DC Current... Most low cost multimeters do not have this high of DC AMPS reading capability.
Hopefully you haven't burned up your multimeter shunts now by placing your multimeter in parallel with the Dc Voltage source.
The way I test my trailer brakes everytime I hook up is hookup my 7-way connector after hooking up the trailer hitch and use my MANUAL LEVER ONLY on the Brake controller (Not the brake pedal) to stop my truck and trailer at the first stop sign I come to.
The newer truck electronics will not let you use your brake pedal for stopping the trailer electric brakes under 10MPH. At least that is how my FORD OEM Brake Controller is setup.
Hope this helps some...
Roy Ken
The BRAKE CONTROLLER will produce a DC VOLTAGE output to each of the Brake Magnets.
If you are providing 12DCV output then each Brake Magnet will draw around 3AMPS of DC Current.
The Brake controller settings allow you to only provide enough DC Voltage so that the brakes do not drag but slow you down accordingly.
My settings is around 5-6 on the controller screen is somewhere around 6VDC being applied to the brake magnet when the brake pedal is pressed. When using the manual slider I can get around 12VDC going to the brake magnets on my OEM Ford setup...
If you have a mulitmeter set for MILLIAMPS and place the leads across the DC Voltage source it will blow your meter fuse. When using Milliamps setting the multimeter has to be in series with the DC load and the DC source to read the DC Current all of your brake magnets are drawing. For a dual axle this could be around 12AMPS DC Current... Most low cost multimeters do not have this high of DC AMPS reading capability.
Hopefully you haven't burned up your multimeter shunts now by placing your multimeter in parallel with the Dc Voltage source.
The way I test my trailer brakes everytime I hook up is hookup my 7-way connector after hooking up the trailer hitch and use my MANUAL LEVER ONLY on the Brake controller (Not the brake pedal) to stop my truck and trailer at the first stop sign I come to.
The newer truck electronics will not let you use your brake pedal for stopping the trailer electric brakes under 10MPH. At least that is how my FORD OEM Brake Controller is setup.
Hope this helps some...
Roy Ken
