The Norcold broke (again) and I am going with a Residential.

I would switch that inverter out for a 2000 watt. I made the same change only I used a Haier refer. You would be surprised at the power draw when the compressor kicks on. I have the 2000 watt inverter and I am glad I do. Not saying the 1000 watt inverter won't work but the difference in cost is not that much. Since yours is on order you could just switch them out. JMHO

I do love my haier fridge though, its a great change. Do not remove the defrost from the cycle. I did and I ended up buying a new defrost timer and re installing it. I was amazed at how much frost can build up on humid summer days. Which I was warned about removing right here on the forum but I didn't listen!!

Trim on an RV is no problem anymore. Buy some molding. Take a piece of the molding and one of your cupboard doors into your local paint store.Tgey can shoot it for color and mix some stain to match. I had some matching done on my previous TT at Sherwin Williams.

I would be more concerned with fridge power requirements. I would check before purchase. Some are better than others.

dave17352 wrote:
I would switch that inverter out for a 2000 watt.

That is good advice. I must have got lucky. I just looked up the specifications on the 1000W inverter and it has a 2000W surge capacity. So I should be good.

With only 2 batteries you are going to be in for disappointment for any camping without shore-power. Especially with a 10 c.f. unit.

If you stick to shore-power you will be happy. I just hope they come up with something better before my current 6 c.f. unit goes belly up. We can deal with the thermistor sometimes acting up and leaving the unit running "always on" by just turning off for about 4 hours, and then restarting.

Could go for a 12v compressor fridge/freezer.

MNtundraRet wrote:
With only 2 batteries you are going to be in for disappointment for any camping without shore-power. Especially with a 10 c.f. unit.

You are probably very right, but I have found another poster here that has had success using two batteries.

Here is why I think that it might work (check my math):
According to the yellow sticker, this Fridge uses 312kw/yr.
That is 312,000 watts per year.
That is 854.7 watts per day.
or 35.6 watts per hour
or .29 amps per hour (remember this thing isn't running all the time)
or 2.9 amp per hour at 12 volts.

One of those 12V overhead lights will suck down that much juice.

Running it for 10 hours over night should use 30 amp hours. My pair of batteries are rated at 245 amp hours or 123 usable amp hours. I think that I could make it work.

I'll find out soon enough, I'm sure:B

bob_b wrote:
I think that I could make it work.
I'll find out soon enough, I'm sure:B

1) Motors don't like non-sinusoidal waveforms. Make sure you get an inverter that produces true/pure sine wave, not modified, or you may overheat the motor coils or draw more power than you expect.

2) Figure in some losses for the inverter.

3) Don't rely too heavily on the factory AH specs for your batteries.

4) I'd want a generator and ideally an autostart feature that will start the gen when the inverter detects low battery voltage.

Your math was correct. The units were wrong (watt-hours and amp hours should have been used instead of watts and amps), but it makes no diff to your calculations.

I'm sorry to hear about your refer problems. I've used my propane refer happily for 40+ years. I had to replace the control board once and after 30 years, I left my RV keys with a repair shop when we had a problem at the start of a trip (full refer load of food) and they moved the RV to a non-level spot (after promising not to do that). I had to replace the damaged refer. Other than that, my only problem has been one replacement of the gas probe sensor and some yearly cleaning.

bob b:

Your refrigerator runs 24 hours per day. The sticker you used would account for that. Even using the calculations you gave the number would be 70 amps per 24 hour period. That's not accounting for inverter overhead or any other normal use.

That's why my standard 6 c.f. refrigerator only runs on 120v AC or propane.

Mark B. :B

bob_b wrote:

MNtundraRet wrote:
With only 2 batteries you are going to be in for disappointment for any camping without shore-power. Especially with a 10 c.f. unit.

You are probably very right, but I have found another poster here that has had success using two batteries.

Here is why I think that it might work (check my math):
According to the yellow sticker, this Fridge uses 312kw/yr.
That is 312,000 watts per year.
That is 854.7 watts per day.
or 35.6 watts per hour
or .29 amps per hour (remember this thing isn't running all the time)
or 2.9 amp per hour at 12 volts.

One of those 12V overhead lights will suck down that much juice.

Running it for 10 hours over night should use 30 amp hours. My pair of batteries are rated at 245 amp hours or 123 usable amp hours. I think that I could make it work.

I'll find out soon enough, I'm sure:B

I think your fridge easily run overnight on your two batteries. Mine runs fine for 24 hours on my two interstate 75 amp hour marine rv batteries. I will go bigger for sure when time to replace though.

I would still get the ignition module and try to sell the Norcold in working condition.