The model number of the TRANSPO is 8313
IT MUST HAVE A SUPERB CASE GROUND. Isolate the case to chassis ground as noted above. But also note Oropeza got tired of hearing neophyte complaints about neophytes "tampering" with the voltage pot. The little white pot with the blue screw set in the green potting on the REAR of this regulator. I sorta remember these - all 150 or so...
Don't screw around. Order a genuine TYCO BOSCH relay with socket plug on Amazon. Other brands can be utter junk. This DEDICATED beauty would have 2 functions...
1. Provide field voltage to the alternator IGNITION brush
2. Provide field power and voltage reference to the the 8313 voltage regulator.
Use sixteen gauge tinned wire throughout. It's plenty big enough for four amps of field current. The BOSCH TYCO relay should drop a mere .16 volt with a 4 amp contact load. Graft a chopped OEM ignition field supply wire to feed the relay coil. You need to tap the ALTERNATOR OUTPUT STUD for relay contacts power. Two tenths of a salvaged volt drop directed to the alternator field can mean five amperes additional output. Yes this means at rock bottom engine speed.
The 8313 is a Pulse Width Modulated Field Effect Transistor voltage regulator. it uses an NPN rather than a PNP output transistor (which I prefer). The circuit board is wave soldered.
By connecting the regulator power to the alternator output stud, if the main battery cable gets blown or disconnected the regulator could care less. The stub power wire from the alternator will maintain perfect voltage value. This is NOT THE CASE if voltage regulator power is taken at the battery.
Save the voltage drop correction buzz for something else. A system like this has been power wire upgraded resulting in NO voltage drop between alternator output stud and the battery positive post. Wiring the reg like I suggest results in inherent protection - the best kind.
Emery or file off the irridite plating around one of the two 1/4" diameter reg mounting holes. Use a quarter inch ring terminal fit for TEN TO TWELVE GAUGE wire. Double the stripped conductor and crimp. Then solder, and double heat shrink for strain relief. I used a heavy block of wood atop the wire to clamp the ring terminal to the reg case. If you need to, whittle a wood peg to keep the ring terminal centered on the mounting hole. Then solder the heck out of the terminal to case connection. Don't spare the 63/37! The other end of the wire gets exactly the same terminal treatment to a fastener on the engine BLOCK or to the alternator. The alternator is best - perhaps to one of the case screws.
