7.0 on the turns counter equates to 14.4v at cold idle(~850 rpm) with a battery only able to accept ~ 20 amps at 14.4v
When hot at idle (525 rpm) 7.0 on the dial equates to 14.1v but a few hundred more rpm will have it rise back to 14.4v but not instantly either, over perhaps 5 seconds at 850 rpm or above.
The extremely low Idle speed seems to be the rubber band in my system, but it does not overshoot. If set to 14.4v cold idle, it will never rise above that, but it will sag below that at less than 800 rpm, at least with a battery above ~75% charged
I can turn up the dial at hot idle, and get a corresponding voltage increase, but then at higher rpms the voltage overshoots as expected.
I've not tested it yet with a 50% depleted battery that can max out the alternator at any rpm. I keep meaning too, as well as collect some alternator temp data, but for now I can report only that Idling to recharge significantly increases alternator temperature compared to driving whilst producing more total amperage.
Not sure of the voltage response at idle speeds when instant absorption voltage cannot be obtained either when the battery is depleted and requires 70+ amps to achieve absorption voltage.
I will update as I collect more data and have taken note of the behavior, but driving distracted trying to collect data is not wise either.
With regards to the counting dial, I do not look at that very closely while driving as the numbers are small, and honestly, a 14.4v setpoint is simply good enough until I know it requires less than 0.42 amps into battery to maintain that voltage, at which point I turn down the dial until voltage reads 13.6 to 13.8, and 525 Idle speed rpm throws a wrench into the expectations.
Lowering voltage on a cold start to reduce load on a cold engine has been done a few times, but again without the battery depleted enough to max out the Alternator, some unknown variables still exist.
Let me know what/if there is any specific data you want me to collect.
I've been driving this van long enough to know if it is getting feedback from sensors or not, in open loop or not, and I can say even when the CEL does come on, when I have chosen 14.8v or higher and the ecm was in 13.7v mode, that the engine still runs the same, same power, smoothness, and throttle feel, and exhaust smell.
This is an '89 model year. No idea how it would relate to your '94 or other makes models/vintages.
