I was having fun today with my newly installed Bayite hall effect ammeter hooked over my alternator output cable after I disconnected the OEM parallel charge circuit.
Seems my current lifetime warranty reman'd Chrysler 50/120 alternator can go as high as 56 amps at 550 engine rpm at 14.4v when casing is 129.4 degreesF.
Previous Reman seemed to top out at ~40amps.
My battery was not very depleted accepting only 9 amps at 14.4, so that 56 amps consisted of most of my drivers seat accessible loads like all my lights and blower motor on high. 8 to 11 amps are required just to run fuel pump and ignition, ect
I suspect I will move HES to a different cable once I am bored of seeing total alternator output and want to see only amps into, or out of battery
The newly installed VR 60mm fan keeps VR below 92f. Only rises above that after engine shutdown.
I ran A terminal to alternator (+) stud instead of directly to battery(+). And this main alternator cable is Imperfect from the days when my crimper consisted of a hammer and a screwdriver.
Hard to say about fan's effect on voltage sag at idle as of yet. I suspect the temperature of the copper is the biggest cause of the voltage sag at idle. I will improve this cable in the future.
When first driving the voltage was rock steady, but as the alternator crept upwards in temp the voltage sag began at slow speeds.
