Throttle non-responsive after batter disconnect

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Computers have batteries. Now how great of capacity would it take to transfer RAM files to PROM status when a disconnect is sensed? Wait! That's too easy. Jeeze a super cap could power this action. Common sense ECU design will be eventually be "discovered" in the Far East8

Actually, Fords ECU does that one better..

They do have "volatile" and "NON volatile" memory..

Cutting the battery loose for even overnight DOES NOT ALWAYS CLEAR ALL "CODES"..

If a code is severe enough it CAN be stored in non volatile memory and will pop up as soon as you reconnect the battery.

As far as keeping all engine parameters "saved", that is AN EASY FIX.

Take a SECOND 12V battery (can be anything from a small 12V gel cell or even another car battery) and CONNECT it to the vehicles battery terminals BEFORE disconnecting the old battery.

There used to be a little device which plugged into a cig lighter jack of your vehicle which had a 9V transistor radio battery and a diode that was touted to keep your engine computer settings.. Not sure if a 9V battery could do that but anything close to 12V should do the trick (eight AA dry cell batteries with a diode could possibly work, note, diode is there to protect the non rechargeable dry cells from turning into little fire crackers!).

I HAVE done the 12V battery trick multiple times on my own vehicles, works every time!

Computers have batteries. Now how great of capacity would it take to transfer RAM files to PROM status when a disconnect is sensed? Wait! That's too easy. Jeeze a super cap could power this action. Common sense ECU design will be eventually be "discovered" in the Far East8

Some ideas here for a similar year Ford product. Not a V10 but possible one of the suggestions may help.

Found this 2006 V10 procedure for you

A dirty throttle body can cause a low idle condition after disconnecting the battery. The engine computer will "learn" a new idle position over time as deposits build on the throttle body. When you disconnect the battery this memory is lost. The computer should relearn the idle speed fairly quickly. To help it along try the following: Warm the engine (hold the idle up with the gas pedal if necessary). When the engine is warm slowly release the throttle until the engine will idle on its own, let it do do for about one minute. Next with your foot on the brake place the transmission into drive and let the engine idle for another minute. Next with the trans in drive turn the a/c on for another minute. If this procedure does not restore the correct idle for your 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty you can try cleaning the throttle body deposits by spraying some carb cleaner on a rag and wiping the throttle bore.

Some pretty darn off the wall, wacky responses..

None of the responses are even close.

I suspect your E450 V10 may be a "drive by wire" electronic throttle body.. The throttle body is controlled via the ECU computer.

If this is the case then the ECU WILL need some time to relearn all of the sensors including the throttle body..

There should be a procedure in the chassis owners manual on the relearn process.

Do you have a "wrench" icon lit?

If you do there is a possibility that the throttle body plate has become gummed up and is stuck or sticking.. The ECU commands the throttle plate to open and close, if the throttle plate gets stuck the ECU will light the wrench and put the engine in limp mode..

Result is loss of throttle operation..

Fix for this is a simple cleaning with a can of throttle body cleaner and rag.. The downside is you have to remove all the air intake parts down to the throttle body to get to it..

Once you have access you turn the key on but don't start the engine.. Then you need a short board to jamb the foot pedal to the floor (or a helper).. Once you have the throttle plate open you can spray some cleaner on the rag and swab the plate and body until clean.

If you spray directly in you will need to wait overnight for the spray to evaporate, otherwise you will create the same symptom of a carb that flooded..

We used to clear some fault codes by disconnecting the battery terminals and then pull a light switch ON for a short time... This will drain off any residual current that may reset some settings... Used to work great doing this clearing code messages etc.

However a couple of years ago I had to replace my Truck Alternator one time so pulled the battery terminals and pulled the alternator and off to NAPA I go. Came back with rebuilt alternator and got it all hooked back up and things ran good but my idle setting was way off. My engine would die if I took my foot off from the gas pedal at a stop sign. I drove it awhile this way for a couple of days as the book said it would re-learn its setting again...

Finally had to take it in to be put on the Ford Computer at a minimum cost of $90 an hour. It took about five minutes to reset all the settings and things were just fine after that. Still had to pay the $90 service charge for the five minutes of work...

A better for Ford idea I reckon...

Even today if I have to pull my Truck start battery terminals for any reason I always throw in a second 12VDC source to keep the computers still going...

Will work hard to keep from throwing away another $90...

Roy Ken

Hi,


Try disconnecting the battery overnight. Perhaps it will "reset" again.

The other alternative is to get something such as a scangauge that can clear the codes.

I don't have any experience in doing this, but do know the device above can clear codes.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Ford, wants you to spend money for an ECU "re-set". Done with an electronic instrument.

Any other option? The biggest problem is that Ford's technicians won't come to the RV, and I can't get the RV to move.

Ford, wants you to spend money for an ECU "re-set". Done with an electronic instrument.