Time for a new A/C ?

Ordered from adventureRV.net No problems getting the product delivered.

Haven't installed it but everything seems to be intact.

I'll update later if it installs correctly.

I will be replacing my AC on my 2003 Rockwood with unit I found on adventureRV.net. By far the lowest price. I know I've seen some really bad reviews but I've seen more good/decent reviews so I gave them a shot (using my credit card that offers me protection on bad online purchases)

I have a ducted AC unit so I'll snap some pictures of the process.

just wanted to update everyone on what happened.
Local dealer had a 15k in stock so I picked it up after work yesterday. I found one at Adventure RV for less money but after speaking with them on the phone I had serious doubts I would ever see it. And an extra charge to order by phone?

So anyway I got home around 5 and we had rain coming. But 90 minutes later I was done. Checked the differential temps and input was 80F output at farthest duct was 55F. So a 25 degree drop.

Due to pending rain I didn't take pictures. But basically I removed 6 screws to get the inside cover off, one connector and the freeze sensor. took out 4 bolts, then went up top and lifted the unit off. Placed new unit in place went inside and reversed process.

DS stayed on roof to nudge into position while I installed the bolts. Our initial placement was within 1/4 inch of perfect.

Really the hardest part was getting the unit off and on the roof.

Swapping (I had pros do it) is fairly easy from a description point of view.

There are 3 swaps.

1: Same/same
2: Adapt-a-kit
3: Different make or model

I will cover the first two since they are basically identical, Mine was a type 2 (Adapt-a-kit).

They replaced a Carrier Air V with an Advent top unit, In this type of conversion you do NOT replace anything else save for one electrical connector (This may not always be the case either) I do not know why they did not design the adapt-a-kit so you did not have to replace that connector.

Remove inner cover (4 screw) and unplug cables to roof unit from control box

Remove 4 larger bolts that hold the roof unit on

REmove roof unit, if necessary remove and replace gasket

Position new roof unit, replace 4 bolts tightening as per instructions

Adapt-a-kit special step: Replace the one socket and harness, NOTE: the instructions said to do it, not now to replace a MOlex connector. thankfully I know that one (It's obvious if you look at it properly)

RE-connect harness to top unnit (in this case with an adapter cable)

TEST

Replace inner cover

That is all there was to it.

NOTE: This is for a ducted system,, If you have a non-ducted system go ahead and replace the inner parts as well (inner = indoors = ceiling)

NOTE that I did not mess with the duct work or the duct adapter (the part actually IN the ceiling) save for replacing that one elctrical connector.


Sounds easy doesen't it.

Now for the kicker... Check the shipping weight of that roof unit, Now, as it happens it is possible I MIGHT be able to horse that sucker up a ladder.. I'm big, I'm strong, I have climbed a ladder with that kind of weight in the past.. The far distant past.

That is why I hired it done.

The man who lifted it up to the roof needed but a couple fingers.... On the hydraulic valve of the tractor mounted front end loader.. To lift the new one up and the old one down.. TWO strong men on the roof positioned it.

Look at THIS and let us know if you checked the "indoor" (evaporator) coil as well as the "outdoor" (condenser) coil and found it's CLEAN as well. If the evap isn't clean and/or condensate not draining, it'll freeze.

If you find the compressor is not starting, could be the Capacitor. There are modern inexpensive multimeters that'll test uF capacitance.

If it starts and runs hot, could be it's running tight and overheating. Again, inexpensive clamp-on AC ammeter can tell you if its draw matches the label plate on the compressor.

I don't know if one can start then run hot because of a failed capacitor. I don't think so, but not really sure.

6 years is not old but if you hire the problem fixed you may as well put the money towards a new unit. I agree it's low on freon or partialy blocked cap tube. With a 50/50 chance it's low on freon and leak is too small to locate with sniffer,if you have the tools and knowledge to work on it,I would think it worth installing an access valve and adding refrigerant. If you don't have a vacum pump and/or brazing torch available,cheap out with a self pericing saddle valve. If the problem proves to be low charge,go two steps farthur. Add a bit of flouresent under black light leak detector. When and if the detector pinpionts the leak,consider if it can be brazed up. If it can be brazed you should be able to have it done at a reasonable price. And for goodness sake,replace saddle valve with one brazed in while they are at it.

If you are going to do the swap yourself, and it sounds as if you will be, how about getting some pictures, as an aid to the rest of us, who may be needing to tackle the same project down the road.
I accidentally left our A/C on for a month this winter. I like to run it a bit, when I exercise the genset, and I guess I hit the "auto/on" switch instead of the "Air/OFF/Heat" switch, and didn't notice it until a few weeks later, when I was wondering what that noise was coming from the RV (on the side of our house)....when out in the backyard, I thought it was our neighbors system:S
Still blowing cold air, but it's about 13 years old......so a change may be in our near future!

Yeah, post pictures of the process! The would be greatly appreciated!!
Plus, they pay you twice as much as what they pay you now to post your comments:B

I would let it pressure down and hit that valve with a hammer a few times and retry. Then keep tapping during the initial run. Longshot but no loss in trying.

Well, I did a couple more tests. Ambient air is 84 degrees and duct output 81 degrees. So a whopping 3 degrees.

I also dug out my refrigerant detector and I'm not really getting anything.

So Scott you may be right. As small as that capillary tube is it wouldn't take much to clog it. But what maybe a small piece of seal from inside the compressor?

And yes Keystone cheaped out and used a 13.5k. My old Springdale had a 15k and did a way better job with way less insulation. And the 15k is only $120 more

Leak or clog it all comes out the same. Not worth repairing.

Could also be low on freon as a result of the leak, how old is the unit?