toasted wheel bearing

spadoctor wrote:
There is no such thing as brake drum rotation direction.

Drum, Yes. But Trailer Brakes are built as Right Side and Left Side units. The DRUM itself may not care which way it turns/which side it's on, but the Brake sure does.

3oaks wrote:
I would never us a string. String stretches giving inaccurate measurements. Use thin flexible wire.

Ha! That is soooo obvious.... after years (decades) of using string to "approximate" distances, it never occured to me to use wire! Learn something new every day.

spadoctor wrote:
If you go under the rig you should find a label or band that tells the exact brand ratings etc for the axle....I would use the same as replacement as everything will line up. No need to buy new bolts or to replace the spring center bolts....if you do use grade 8 bolts. There is no such thing as brake drum rotation direction. It is a simple straight forward job. If you want better breaking....re-do ALL the brake electrical connections with solder and shrink wrap.....crimp connections are all poor choices.

thanks for clearing up some misconceptions..... from re-packing bearings I have noticed that those electrical connections are garbage. as are those stupid magnets.... i am leaning towards a disc brake conversion because of the simplicity and increased stopping distance.

If you go under the rig you should find a label or band that tells the exact brand ratings etc for the axle....I would use the same as replacement as everything will line up. No need to buy new bolts or to replace the spring center bolts....if you do use grade 8 bolts. There is no such thing as brake drum rotation direction. It is a simple straight forward job. If you want better breaking....re-do ALL the brake electrical connections with solder and shrink wrap.....crimp connections are all poor choices.

We've had cases recently where brakes didn't work on new trailers because the hubs were over-greased. The transporters are the suspects. I wonder if a few axles were installed short on grease so the transporters grease the snot out of them just to be sure they don't get stranded during the delivery.

Huntindog wrote:

geotex1 wrote:
I'll disagree with those saying no adjustment... Depending on how you buy the axle, you very well might find yourself making sure you have the axle camber where it should be, positioning the perches, etc... So, if you are buying a "naked" axle you'll need to carefully parallel it to track with the axle(s) staying put.

I have not seen bare axles sold... Not saying that they aren't available, but as cheap, and plentiful as the ready to mount ones are, why would anyone go this route for a replacement?

To the OP, it is a pretty straight forward job. The parts are heavy, but easy enough to do. Even on the side of the road. Don't ask me how I know.:B

Because sometimes you have a trailer fabrication shop and supply within miles of your home who cambers and welds tubes to pre-machined spindles to make exactly what you need same day even cheaper while also carrying standard widths of common Dexter and AL-KOs axles without perches welded and so you can sling them how you need.

smkettner wrote:
My springs became weak and flat after a few years causing some alignment and tire issues. I replaced with higher rated springs and a dexter ezflex suspension kit with greasable bolts.

http://dexteraxle.com/e_z_flex_equalizers

Everyone that has moved to disks seems to rave about the improvement.

Dexter has some retrofit kits but you can probably get an axle already equipped then retrofit the other axle. Cost of the controller is a bit extra. Also look on etrailer to see more options. It is a bit of a leap.

Thanks.... started reading up on the disc brakes... they sound awesome - considering i have a tri axle it would probably run close to $2000. i'm all for safer stopping though especially since wife and kid are always in the truck when the fiver is in tow.... thanks for the sugestions

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
My 2 centavos which is intended to be in addition to the excellent points above...

Crawl under the rig three or four times in a week's period and soak the livin' bejeezes out of all the fasteners with penetrant.

Replace the 2 spring's center bolts.

Measure with a long enough string the distance from the trailer pintle to the exact center of the spindles on both sides. Make sure the string doesn't hang up on something in the middle. Distance doesn't matter, equalness does. Then measure from exact center front axle to rear axle.

I would never us a string. String stretches giving inaccurate measurements. Use thin flexible wire.

My springs became weak and flat after a few years causing some alignment and tire issues. I replaced with higher rated springs and a dexter ezflex suspension kit with greasable bolts.

http://dexteraxle.com/e_z_flex_equalizers

Everyone that has moved to disks seems to rave about the improvement.

Dexter has some retrofit kits but you can probably get an axle already equipped then retrofit the other axle. Cost of the controller is a bit extra. Also look on etrailer to see more options. It is a bit of a leap.

My 2 centavos which is intended to be in addition to the excellent points above...

Crawl under the rig three or four times in a week's period and soak the livin' bejeezes out of all the fasteners with penetrant.

Replace the 2 spring's center bolts.

Measure with a long enough string the distance from the trailer pintle to the exact center of the spindles on both sides. Make sure the string doesn't hang up on something in the middle. Distance doesn't matter, equalness does. Then measure from exact center front axle to rear axle.