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Mako_Kupo's avatar
Mako_Kupo
Explorer
Sep 22, 2017

total rewire/rebuild of 1979

hey guys! I have another post going in another section about removing caulk, and since im tackling multiple things at once and also a 100% novice in 12v wiring, I find myself a little... overhwhelmed. right now in my driveway is a 20 foot 1979 ford custom camper coachman cadet. long title, short camper. it is stripped to the wood frame, still on the truck. all wiring pulled out, because it was corroding and brittle, thin wire.

anyway, I'm redoing the whole thing with new appliances/wood/caulk including but not limited to - natured head compost toilet, wave 8 catalytic heater, hot water heater, and stove. I also have 2x fantastic fans, and my compost toilet uses .05amps - .1 amps. so there is much less wiring now than before, I suppose, since there won't be any black tank, or furnace with thermostat/vents.

I will replace what I need to electronics wise, and am looking at converters now. mine was not working at all, when plugged in only the outlets and AC worked. I have the thing that looks like a circuit panel, it has breakers in it and all connections are solid with no corrosion. there don't appear to b e any parts there that could break, besides breakers which I will replace.

anyway, I'm unsure of buying a new converter, or a power center, because nom not 100% sure on what does what. I know they both convert 110 to 12v, and charge batteries. with a power center you seemingly get everything in one place, and if I were to get one, id grab the PD 90 amp. it is in the budget. however, they seem to not work as great as having all components separate.

does it make a difference which I get? the all in ones look nice and appear to save a lot of space/headache, not to mention I need to learn to wire everything here as I buy and install it. no idea what to do next. please help!
  • I rewired my travel trailer, both 120V AC and 12v DC. I'd suggest to break out a piece of paper and mark locations for all receptacles, lights, pump, fans, and any 12V jacks needed.

    The 120V is straight forward, observe typical residential code and you'll do fine.

    For the 12V, you'll be able to do something that typical RV mfgs don't--pull both a positive phase and negative phase wire for each 12V device location instead of using a frame ground. This greatly eliminates a lot of 12V problems in the future.

    I also pulled both supplies up into the ceiling and dropped down into the walls to the locations. I used 4" junction boxes in the ceiling so diagnosing a problem in the future is easier. I covered the hole for the junction box area with an aluminum plate that serves as the mount for a dual light fixture. I also installed a vacant 1" conduit in the ceiling, leading aft. That is for any future upgrades in the rear.

    Good luck with the wire !
  • thank you guys, all if this has helped tremendously. ill be finishing up removing caulking today, with any luck. then tomorrow I can start rebuilding, yay! I didn't want to reframe it, THEN have to remove the caulk, it would have been disheartening. now, when I finish framing, I can literally grab the panels and just stick them on. I think it was a good call, though I've put 20+ hours already into scrubbing caulk. worth it!
  • I have gotten myself in a predicament. the guy who was leading the work, decided it was a good idea to take the walls off, and floor out but to leave the roof on! yay! not only that, but the entire back end wall came off too. now, we can't proceed without taking the roof and AC out. it is ridiculously unsafe. any ideas? please!

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