Transmission rebuild

thx for the replys,
110k miles. burns about a quart per 1kmiles or a little more
Coach condition... not A1, but many more years of life left for me to use it. fulltiming so gotta keep it going...

I am guessing preious owner never pulled the trans pan off and did anything. Stuck valve... sounds like it could be. yes

I did change the trans fluid when I bought it with 8ok miles on it.

I need to find a chevy trans shop with someone that knows what they are doing. Ill call a around.

$3k for a new trans is too much. I need a solution for half that )

Scoozah Me, but isn't the condition of the coach itself the deciding factor in justifying the cost of drivetrain repairs? The sales tax on a fifty grand rig ain't cheap. I've not priced crate motors lately, but a crate motor and a reman tranny would really spruce up a nicely maintained coach.

AND it avoids the SMART SYNDROME. Five hundred dollar dealer visits to switch off a check engine light that would not enter into the play with an older unit.

NEW AGE DEFINITION OF "FUN". Play with near bankruptcy to purchase a brand new SMART rig so you can spend 150-hours of a 240 vacation trying to outwit high tech problems that are not resolvable unless you lose five days of work later on playing pinchy-giggle with the dealer, over warranty repairs.

No wonder the public bit the SMART fish hook so hard the tip of the hook is sticking out of their forehead.

NoMoApt wrote:
reverse provides almost no power to the wheels in this Winnebago Chalet. I have added fluid to make sure that is not the problem. Forward gears are all strong.


Looking for simple solutions...

"I am guessing this indicates a rebuild?"

Not really. see www.transtar1.com You don't state the current mileage.

Your problem could be as simple as a stuck relay or valve. Usually the forward gears go first, not reverse. If you can't do the work yourself, since you can drive it, why not take it to a transmission shop familiar with Chev transmissions for a diagnosis? Tell them that you are not going to be buying a rebuilt transmission and want it fixed as cheaply as/if possible without a guarantee. If they do agree to help you, you will bear all responsibility if the unit fails in 1,000 miles. (or less) That's the chance you take. You did indicate that you want it cheap. Do you feel lucky?

Chum lee

enblethen wrote:
OP you say it burns oil, how many miles between having to add oil.
Noy uncommon for Chev big blocks to us a quart every thousind miles.

Oil is cheap, so it STP.

OP you say it burns oil, how many miles between having to add oil.
Noy uncommon for Chev big blocks to us a quart every thousind miles.

NoMoApt wrote:
The motor burns oil and shoudl really be rebuilt also but the rig is not worth that much.

No, it wouldn't be worth much with those problems. I think it's time for a funeral.

A seventeen year old transmission with say 80,000+ miles and pronounced problems is like a 109 year old human. Protein powder, may be overly optimistic.

After being in the business a limited but extremely education rich time (cutthroat competition) I came to a conclusion that still stands today...

An automaker brand rebuilt transmission is almost impossible to meet never mind surpass in quality and dependable performance.

GM for instance was using all new valve bodies on its THM 400 units, new heat treated clutch drums, reaction shaft, and a larger boss on it's pump casting. No way could I access this stuff aftermarket.

What is today's program? Mr. Goodwrench? The transmissions cannot compete price-wise with scumbag rebuilder craft but then I could not produce a me-too twenty nine dollar lifetime guaranteed alternator. Not and keep my sense of dignity and ethics intact.

GM uses molded plastic shipping boxes to handle their transmissions.

But the transmission cooler(s) and lines must be flushed out.

I would use the largest aftermarket cooler and follow the maker's instructions for mounting.

There used to be a kit called a Transgo-Tow-And-Go valve body modification that seemed to improve the lifespan of heavily loaded automatics but in the age of computer ECU's I sure would check a valve body kit for compatibility and wait until the factory warranty has run out before installing it.

Good luck and if you do your own work, stay safe.

The Chev 4L80 will cost about $3000 to rebuild.
It could be debris in the valve body that causes issue.
When was the last time it was serviced? I do not mean just a flush job type, but one that removes the pan and replaces the filter.

Did you do a Google or Youtube search for your problem?
Do you know the make/model of the transmission? Hopefully you can find some useful information and avoid a total rebuild.