Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair
We have a 2006 Okanagan 811SL truck camper with a slide out. About a year ago, it developed a depression in the floor, right where you climb up into the over-cab bunk. I was afraid that it was rotti...
Forum Discussion
mobeewan wrote:
As long as you can still open and close your cabinet doors you might consider getting a piece of three-quarter inch marine plywood and using it to cover the entire floor of the camper with the exception of the area to access the wire, pump and tubing. Then you could cover the new plywood with a single piece of new vinyl flooring with trim molding around the edges. You're going to need new vinyl flooring anyway. Just make sure to use short screws over the water tank when screwing the new plywood to the old plywood that you haven't removed.
I had considered using rolled vinyl flooring. But I've discovered that you can't even buy rolls of vinyl flooring here anymore (I'm in Victoria, Canada). I've read a number of posts suggesting that the best way to go now with RV's is interlocking 18" x 36" panels of floating flooring. I just did a bathroom with it -- it looks good, was fairly easy to work with, and 100% waterproof. So I'll likely use that.
But I like your idea of screwing down a new sub-floor over the entire camper floor. I would have space under cupboard doors etc. In a previous post, Art suggested angle iron supports. I was just out measuring, and the water-tank was installed so it's top is tight against the underside of the existing (failed...) sub-floor. So to make angle iron work, I'd have to 'rabbit' the new patch -- the thickness of the angle iron. A new sub-floor would strengthen the entire floor and provide support over the patched 2' square hole I just made.
Great idea... Thanks.
