update surge tank installed..remember freeze out plugs

update
thanks to cooler weather, and a day with nothing else scheduled i finally got the new surge tank installed

what a "PAIN", it was the hoses not wanting to slip onTO the nipples
it was real work, the nipples/fittings on the new tank are slightly larger diameter than the plastic tank nipples/barbs
bolt up alignment was perfect, it was just a lot of grunt work forcing the hoses onTO the fittings and yes everything was clean and lubed, but there was NO excess hose length to allow for trimming and i wasn't expecting the size difference of the tank fittings, even brand new hose would have given some problem as it would have been the same hose just a little softer/harder ?

here are few pix..first the BY pass Patch i made
then the new tank before install
i was so tired when we got done, that i for got to take a picture of the new tank in place









weight 18#

shipped from

Motor Coach sales and service
62955 Boyd Acres Rd
Bend OR 97701

ph#541-322-2184

Yes I will when I get back on my laptop

Hi Mr. Wizard,

Well done!

Can you post the addresses for the makers?

I found a powdered coated steel one from "value RV" , MFG specifically for Monaco, Holiday Rambler, Safari

And an aluminium one from another supplier
I ordered the steel one $399 + $36 shipping
It's on the way

Yes I'm looking for an after market replacement

Unlikely that they made the item in multiple materials....unless you go aftermarket "upgraded". One of the reasons they use plastic is for transparency, looking in the overflow tank is how you tell what the coolant level is.

I have the same set up on my burb and reminds me that I need to change mine too...my radiator developed a weeping stress crack in one of the side tanks for the oil cooler and most all other plastic parts in the coolant system have been changed.

Methinks perhaps Last Rites are in order. Too important a duty for scotch tape and bubblegum fixes. Aluminum is a good bet. When I am forced into something like this I plug the tank, pour in a pint or so of lacquer, then do the Samba Maraca bit for a minute, then uncork, drain, and let dry. The lacquer really slows down system electrolysis. Used Nalcool 2000 as well. Fare Well with your issue...

Don .. yeah the plastic will be in a constant deterioration
But it might be good practice for the future

That Cummins engine is iron

Hi Mr Wizard,

They sure don't make it easy to work on them.

It's great you noticed the crack and that you were proactive about fixing it. Lots cheaper than a new motor.

If your motor is steel--then a steel tank, but if it is aluminum--then best to stay with aluminum.

What happens is, over time, the plastic depalmerizes. That means the long chain molecules break up and become short. When they do, the plastic become friable. Heat hastens that process. I don't think plastic welding is going to be a good idea. Yes, it will fix the existing cracks--but there will be more in future.

Now that it's off you can always try enuff duct tape around the whole tank - at least it will be silver and LOOK like metal...! ST