Upgrading the factory Solar on my Momentum 398M

pianotuna wrote:
Huntingdog,

I'd be tempted to use the fridge chimney. Sounds like an excellent upgrade to me.

Huntindog wrote:
Plans are well underway to expand the Solar on my 398M.
I have 4 more Aims 120 watt panels to add to the two I already have.
The plan is to return the Jaboni back to it's factory stock configuration, of one 300 watt panel as it works properly like that. I will run the 6 Aims 120 watt panels as a seperate system. Two series strings of 3 panels, with an easy option of being able to add one more string of three.
I have the Victron 250/100 controller for the new Aims array. This system would total 1020 watts expandable to 1380 watts with ease.

I have one question. The easiest way to run the wiring from the roof is to use the sattelite dish wiring channel. I already have the coaxial cable for the dish and the control cable running thru it. There are two empty slots in the roof plate for the dish. I am considering just running the new array wires thru these slots terminating them on the roof with short cables capped with MC4 connectors. Which would then have 2 into 1 MC4 connectors plugged in, and the two Aims strings plugged into those. My question is on the roof penetration method. Conventional method is to use a gland. That would up the difficulty level a lot. (new hole in roof, likely a different location etc) I can not see any downsides to my proposed method.

What are the thoughts on this?

StirCrazy wrote:

Huntindog wrote:
Plans are well underway to expand the Solar on my 398M.
I have 4 more Aims 120 watt panels to add to the two I already have.
The plan is to return the Jaboni back to it's factory stock configuration, of one 300 watt panel as it works properly like that. I will run the 6 Aims 120 watt panels as a seperate system. Two series strings of 3 panels, with an easy option of being able to add one more string of three.
I have the Victron 250/100 controller for the new Aims array. This system would total 1020 watts expandable to 1380 watts with ease.

I have one question. The easiest way to run the wiring from the roof is to use the sattelite dish wiring channel. I already have the coaxial cable for the dish and the control cable running thru it. There are two empty slots in the roof plate for the dish. I am considering just running the new array wires thru these slots terminating them on the roof with short cables capped with MC4 connectors. Which would then have 2 into 1 MC4 connectors plugged in, and the two Aims strings plugged into those. My question is on the roof penetration method. Conventional method is to use a gland. That would up the difficulty level a lot. (new hole in roof, likely a different location etc) I can not see any downsides to my proposed method.

What are the thoughts on this?

if there is already two pannels installed, I would just add the 4 so that you have two runs of 3 in series. you may be looking at a different controler than what you presently have to do it, but you wouldnt be running any more cables from the roof down.

Steve

BFL13 wrote:
https://www.jabonipowerproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/30A-MPPT-RVC_7.9.19-1.pdf

The max Voc input is 45v as noted. Usual advice is that the controller will fry if that is exceeded. That is a low limit for a controller. Many are at 100v.

You add the Vocs of panels in series and the 300w panel would already be about 40V (WAG), so no way to add another panel in series, only in parallel.

You put two 12v panels in series for say 45v total Voc in parallel with the 40v Voc panel and it didn't quite work. One thing is that the MPPT might have had trouble tracking with different Vmps of the two sets in parallel. Ideal is to parallel similar voltage panels.

So using the Jamboni set as OEM is a good idea. (You might have almost fried it, but got away with it being so close there)

Using two controllers on the battery bank to add their amps works with both set to the same Vabs. You can play with the adjustments on each to best match your battery charging spec for Vabs.

(I have two sets on the Class C with a PWM and an MPPT adding their amps. I had three sets but moved one over to the TC when we got that)

No idea for where to run the wires in your rig. I drilled a new hole in the roof and ran the wires down into a high cupboard and then on from there. Lots of Dicor to fill the hole in the roof. No problem. Big thing is find a good location for the controllers somewhere near the batteries. Wiring routes are all up to what your floor plan allows and what you can get at for drilling holes.