Voltage drop from solar controller
or: Here we Go Again. Still trying to get my 420 Watts of solar to fully charge my 484 AH of battery. (Currently in southern Mexico.) Layout: 2 80 Watt panels and 2 130 Watt panels in paralle...
Forum Discussion
I just added a couple more photos. (connection point for controller output/battery/breakers.) I think you have missed the fact that the #6 wires from the battery to the terminals under the fridge feed the 12V breakers for all the coach 12V systems. A connection here to uncontrolled solar voltage would be risky at best.
To leave the controller where it is? I would hazard a guess that I would need at least 2/0 if not 3/0 to keep the voltage drop reasonable.
I think that for best results I need to run new input wires, maybe #6? (open to suggestions) from the roof to the electric compartment, and install there a new controller that has remote panel for battery voltage, charge current, etc and temp compensation. Then I could cover the hole with the remote panel.
Then, just because I could, I'd add a panel mount dvm to read the voltage across the 12V breakers! It's only money!
Then I could add more panels!
To leave the controller where it is? I would hazard a guess that I would need at least 2/0 if not 3/0 to keep the voltage drop reasonable.
I think that for best results I need to run new input wires, maybe #6? (open to suggestions) from the roof to the electric compartment, and install there a new controller that has remote panel for battery voltage, charge current, etc and temp compensation. Then I could cover the hole with the remote panel.
Then, just because I could, I'd add a panel mount dvm to read the voltage across the 12V breakers! It's only money!
Then I could add more panels!
