Question. do wheel trims contribute to warped front brake roters.94 dutchman class c.454chev.O.D.trans.Hydraboost brakes.front disc rear drum.I'm going to continue this with a voice to type program so excuse errors.My motorhome is old-school. With the old school flying saucer style stainless steel full wheel trim covers.This is my second set of rotors in 10 years. A pair of rotors and a set of brake pads is $450.My wife and friends loved the wheel trim covers. If it was left to me I would just remove the front ones and paint the wheelsI do get off the beaten track. Our last trip was to the eastern tip of the Gaspé Peninsula in Québec.The end of that run is real hilly and tight. I am an experienced motorhome driver and despite using the transmission I came back with warped rotors. I would value some opinions.I hate the Hydra boost brakes. They work okay but require a lot of pedal pressure.The motor home runs good and has 100,000 miles on it I intend to keep patching it up and running it.

At 100,000 miles I would suspect the rotors were worn thin and needed replacing.

Lots of "warped' rotors are actually uneven pad deposits on the rotors which grab harder and lesser in sections and give that same 'pulsey' feel.Easiest way to get a pad deposit on the rotor, it to get them real hot, then holding the brake clamped much harder than is needed to keep the vehicle from running through the redlight.Also rotors of today come from China and can be of suspect metallurgy.

landyacht318 wrote:Lots of "warped' rotors are actually uneven pad deposits on the rotors which grab harder and lesser in sections and give that same 'pulsey' feel.Easiest way to get a pad deposit on the rotor, it to get them real hot, then holding the brake clamped much harder than is needed to keep the vehicle from running through the redlight.Also rotors of today come from China and can be of suspect metallurgy.X2

If the trim covers interfere with air flow thru the brake & wheel, maybe.Dunno if your rear drums have self-adjusters or not. But if they do, they may be frozen. Also, few of us RV'ers back up fast enough and stop hard enough to activate them. This can lead to the front brakes doing more work, causing overheating & warping.I used to overheat disc brakes on mid-70's Ford pickups at work regularly, coming down a mountain outside Franklin on US 64. It'd start shuddering 3/4 of the way down, growing worse with each curve. But the shudder always went away within 3-4 miles as they cooled off.Jim, "Mom said I should follow my dreams. So I went back to bed."

I just replaced my brakes also and was looking around the net and on a different forums. Something that caught my eye was a comment from a mechanic commenting that works for a school dist. He said they have very few warped rotors and the ones they do get is usually from equip that doesn't get much use. And when they do replace they only replace with OEM (Ford..Motorcraft) I have no theory or idea why, but tend to believe what he said makes sense.

warped brake roters | Good Sam Community

Salvo
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
Check your rear brakes before you leave!

awinfs wrote:

When I have finished the front brakes I may check the back ones out if I have time before I go to Florida
thanks for the input guys
mhoefer
Explorer
Sep 14, 2014
I see your in Canada. Getting stock parts is often a problem. They are usually a much better quality that replacement. What I think you should do is go to NAPA or other supply and ask for the top of the line rotors, pads, calipers and flex lines for the front. Don't bother turning rotors, they will be to thin and warp, they just won't have the heat capacity for the front of your rig. Also, if I were you, I would do the same, full kit on the back, new pads, rear drums, internal brake parts kit including the star wheels. These parts don't last forever and a big part of fronts is the caliper slide pins and sticking which causes big uneven wear and warping. In the drums on the back, same thing holds true, poor adjustments, means you are pushing the pedal a long way. Once this is all done, bleed all the old fluid out, new fluid with no water in it doesn't boil as easy and is going to perform much better. Finally, you have a hydro boost, replace the fluid in it, suck out the tank, place in new, jack up front and cycle wheels side to side, suck out the fluid again, replace with new fluid(mercon transmission fluid, it also runs the power steering right?) Do this several times. This is all very important, your hydro boost is telling you it's not happy, you should not have to push so hard, the hydro boost is used on F250, F350 diesels for many years, and is still used today. Make sure this is all working properly, I am thinking this all needs to be done right so you can get the full performance of the braking system back.

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