water heater issue

I don’t know if you have this document, but it may help with your troubleshooting .

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Atwood-Master-Water-Heater-Manual.pdf

After going back and reading what I have said in various posts, I think Im confusing a lot of people. We have hot water. Because the electrical side is working properly. However, even though a few weeks ago the gas valve sounded ok and the ignitor sounded ok.

Previous tests I could hear the valve and the ignitor clicking. But todays test, neither sound was heard.

Now I want to replace the module on the gas side. I am pretty sure its the module. I have read about the Barracuda brand replacement module but googling it hasn't helped. The module I need to replace has part number of 91346. Goggling that part number brings up a lot of modules similar to the one I have but not an exact match. Does anyone know where I can cross-reference a replacement for my module? Hopefully a Barracuda.

Thank You

I would suggest Dinosaur Electronics version.
Dinosaur Electronics
Amazon
Call Dinosaur to get exact part number.

Thank you for the Link to Dinosaur. I have sent them an e-mail with my module part number and my hot water heater model number. I was unable to find the needed part using their cross referencing tables.

The HWH is Atwood GC10A-4e and the module is 91346

Compare yours to this one.
U1B 64

My Atwood manual and the instructions on the cover door for the heater both say do not replace the electronic module! Lots of people waste money on this without doing the proper troubleshooting.

The worst is trying to light the heater when the tank is empty. Sounds like that was already an issue. I tape off both the switches for electric and propane heating when the tank has been winterized and drained. When it is plugged and the valves are in the correct positions it should be easy to tell the tank is filling. The pump should run for several minutes while it fills the tank. You do so with a HW faucet opened! Leave the pressure relief valve shut! The tank should have air in the top to help with expansion.

Next step is to check the electrical connections. You can pull off the snap connectors and reattach. The next step is to replace the ignitor. While waiting for a new part you can clean the ignitor and check the gap. That sometimes works at least until you can replace the unit.

In your case, the next step would be to find someone who knows what they are doing and how to further troubleshoot the unit. 90% of the time the unit should already be working after replacing the ignitor.

I did not try to light the tank with n o water in it. I do not use the water pump. I always hook up to shore water. One less thing to winterize. I always have the hot water faucet open. Otherwise there is no other way to know when the tank has filled.

I have pulled off each terminal connection and checked them for corrosion. I will try to replace the ignitor and see if that helps.

I tend to think its the module based on the fact that at one point, when turning on the gas switch inside the rig, I would hear the gas valve open, I would hear the ignitor clicking away.

Like I had mentioned at one point, I was able to manually light the flame using a long reach ignitor.

Thanks for the input.

I would drain the WH and close the pressure valve before refilling.

Howdy, while I have used Dinosaur boards in the past (they are excellent with excellent support from my experience) I suggest you check the gas assembly completely for any spider web blockage or clogged jet. Also check the thermocouple for location and function. The thermocouple must be hot (in the flame) to keep the gas valve open. Try to rule out all before changing any circuit boards.