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swp5767's avatar
swp5767
Explorer
Jun 06, 2013

Water heater not lighting

Hello all,

The last time I was out, I had issue with the water heater. I had the control module tested at a local RV shop and it worked fine for him every time. You could hear when the igniter would kick off. I installed it back into the heater and it worked the rest of the week.

Im planning another trip next week and started my pre-trip checks and the heater is acting up again..same as before.

I suspect this control module again.. My question, is this the most likely part to fail?

I have attached a couple of pictures of it.. I have shopped around on line a little and have found some from $120 to $150. If this is the part suspected to fail, I don't mind getting a replacement.

Here is the specs on the heater. Its an Atwood model GH6-6E, module part number is AVM-91315. This part is original and the RV is a 1992 Winne.

Thanks for your input!!




10 Replies

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  • Gjac's avatar
    Gjac
    Explorer III
    Jun 08, 2013
    Then you will need to test with an ohm meter per the manual.
  • swp5767's avatar
    swp5767
    Explorer
    Jun 08, 2013
    Gjac wrote:
    If you look at the manual posted towards the end it shows you how to test the module to see if it is good or bad with an ohm meter. The module looks different than the one I have but if you turn it over and see a circuit board and soldered joints you could look for burned out tracks. If it is potted like mine is you have to test with an ohm meter.


    This one is a sealed unit. You cant see the board from the back.
  • Gjac's avatar
    Gjac
    Explorer III
    Jun 08, 2013
    If you look at the manual posted towards the end it shows you how to test the module to see if it is good or bad with an ohm meter. The module looks different than the one I have but if you turn it over and see a circuit board and soldered joints you could look for burned out tracks. If it is potted like mine is you have to test with an ohm meter.
  • swp5767's avatar
    swp5767
    Explorer
    Jun 08, 2013
    I just picked up a new one on ebay for $100.. Its a more updated replacement to the one I have..

    You are right about labor charges for someone to look at it..

    Thanks again for your input.
  • MPD56's avatar
    MPD56
    Explorer
    Jun 08, 2013
    Well it could be on it’s way out? The thing now a days, is it is cheaper for a repair shop to change parts on spec then charge for hours of troubleshooting. Where I live they would have to charge an hour labour ($94/hour).
    I provided a link to a manual below, it might not go back to 1992 but it shows your model and on page 24. And how to test the spark circuit on page 21.

    http://bryantrv.com//docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf

    Could look for a RV Salvage yard and take your chances on a used part?

    Good Luck
  • swp5767's avatar
    swp5767
    Explorer
    Jun 08, 2013
    Unfortunately I do not have the manual for this unit.. When I this box out on my desk, I noticed bug parts falling out of it. I kept tapping it on the desk and at least 6 dead lady bugs fell out if it. There are open hole where they can get into it.

    I reinstalled the unit and it fired up every time. It fired up 10 times in a row yesterday.. I tried it again this morning, it did not lite the first time, but did every time after.

    When it does not lite, you don't hear anything. When it does, you hear 4-6 spark attempts then it fires right up.

    I do not suspect the gas valve at this point. When its lit, it is burning fine. Good flame and all.

    This unit was built in 1992. What is the likelihood this box is on its way out? I have found replacement modules online for $120. In my local RV stores they are around $200.
  • MPD56's avatar
    MPD56
    Explorer
    Jun 08, 2013
    From my other post. I would check this first before you buy something.

    I would check for a dirty or cracked spark probe assembly? In the manual it will tell you how to check the integrity of the spark probe. If you can hear the spark then I wouldn’t suspect a bad board. Basically when it is dry out, you turn the gas off and insert an insulating material between the sparking and ground probe gap and this might force the spark to jump where it would if it is damp out? If you do it when it is dark out, it would be easier to see the spark.

    http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27001654.cfm
  • swp5767's avatar
    swp5767
    Explorer
    Jun 07, 2013
    Anyone else on this? I stopped by my local RV store and they have the replacement for this for $200. That's half the cost of a new heater.. I don't want to spend the money on a heater at this time.
  • BrianinMichigan's avatar
    BrianinMichigan
    Explorer
    Jun 07, 2013
    Do you always hear the igniter sparking when you try to fire it up? Do you know if gas is getting through the valve?

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