My 6 gal Atwood G6A-8E HW would not stay lit,it would light and stay clicking then shut off. I replaced the flame sensor last year so I decided to clean the electrical contacts orifice and flame sensor tips but still could not get it to stay lit. I then started to clean the grounds and noticed the ground wire for the two green wires on the gas valve was rusted so stared to remove nut to clean terminals and pulled one of the green wires out. Has anyone done this before and have re-soldered the wire back or do I need a complete new gas valve? Hopefully the picture comes attached.

I am guessing that the connector is a spade type. If it is, go and purchase a new one and reconnect all the wire to it and take sand paper to the male end of the connection to clean it up and then reconnect the female end. Trying to clean rust out of a female connector is next to impossible and the connectors are dirt cheap. Take the connector with you to the auto parts store to get the correct size and you will be in business in short order.

The problem is not wiring, it's the actual ground bond between the thermocouple/ starter, burner assy.. Any even slight corrosion under those brackets will cause it to do exactly what you see. This happened to me several years ago and I ended up buying a replacement control board before figuring this out. I cleaned everything and added star washers to all screws just to make sure the ground return was solid.(edit iPhone spelling)

Grandpere wrote:I am guessing that the connector is a spade type. If it is, go and purchase a new one and reconnect all the wire to it and take sand paper to the male end of the connection to clean it up and then reconnect the female end. Trying to clean rust out of a female connector is next to impossible and the connectors are dirt cheap. Take the connector with you to the auto parts store to get the correct size and you will be in business in short order. Hpefully a picture will come this time. It is a wire that just broke no spade connection. I figured I would solder back together to continue to trouble shoot system If this doesn't work the only thing left is the control board which I will test next. The ground is the left hand nut when I went to take it off it pulled the wire out. The terminals and nut were rusty. Lesson learned is remove the gas valve first if nut and terminals are rusted together.

Yep, I'd say you need a new valve,......and then hope the control board is ok.Or dig into it, see if it will solder back on,....nothing to loose.

Water heater problem made worse | Good Sam Community

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jul 16, 2014
You can buy replacement coils for Suburban or Hydroflame, which work fine for the Atwood- it is Hydroflame p/n 3475 - the difference is it has quick disconnect terminals, not wires. It may be possible to repair the coil you have- it's just very fine wire you have to deal with.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
Yep, I'd say you need a new valve,......and then hope the control board is ok.
Or dig into it, see if it will solder back on,....nothing to loose.
Gjac
Explorer III
Jul 16, 2014
Grandpere wrote:
I am guessing that the connector is a spade type. If it is, go and purchase a new one and reconnect all the wire to it and take sand paper to the male end of the connection to clean it up and then reconnect the female end. Trying to clean rust out of a female connector is next to impossible and the connectors are dirt cheap. Take the connector with you to the auto parts store to get the correct size and you will be in business in short order.
Hpefully a picture will come this time. It is a wire that just broke no spade connection. I figured I would solder back together to continue to trouble shoot system If this doesn't work the only thing left is the control board which I will test next. The ground is the left hand nut when I went to take it off it pulled the wire out. The terminals and nut were rusty. Lesson learned is remove the gas valve first if nut and terminals are rusted together.
SCVJeff
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
The problem is not wiring, it's the actual ground bond between the thermocouple/ starter, burner assy.. Any even slight corrosion under those brackets will cause it to do exactly what you see. This happened to me several years ago and I ended up buying a replacement control board before figuring this out. I cleaned everything and added star washers to all screws just to make sure the ground return was solid.

(edit iPhone spelling)
Grandpere
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
I am guessing that the connector is a spade type. If it is, go and purchase a new one and reconnect all the wire to it and take sand paper to the male end of the connection to clean it up and then reconnect the female end. Trying to clean rust out of a female connector is next to impossible and the connectors are dirt cheap. Take the connector with you to the auto parts store to get the correct size and you will be in business in short order.
DO_N_DAT
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
No picture.

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