WFCO price vs other brands.

fj12ryder wrote:
Thank you for the advice. I thought I would be okay because I've had a battery charger on the battery since the converter went south. It was showing 12.75v this morning, and I thought it would only go to high charge for a short time. I just went out and checked and it's showing 13.67v and we have most of the lights on. I hope it will do the trick since I put the basement wall back up and reloaded all the gear we had to take out to get to the converter. When we get home I may have to move it to a more accessible location. I'm only running one 12 volt battery.

I did read up on what you're saying about the manual and automatic settings. Sounded like you could pretty much dial in whatever you wanted. I do appreciate all the advice I've received about this. It will be very handy to know.

Good thing to know about the hat though. :)

The LK is not suited well for being tucked away where you can't get at it to operate the controls. For that, you might be better off with a PD and Charge Wizard, where you can use the remote gizmo from somewhere you can get at it.

Apparently there are "issues" with that plan, in that the wire on the remote gizmo is not very long.

IMO your best bet is to move the converter to where you can get at it and see into the two holes.

Another thing there is that to set the adjustable voltage accurately, the converter needs 120v in and nothing connected to the output except your voltmeter. (battery voltage drags down the voltage seen at the converter)

That is a problem with a fixed installation. A cure for that would be a high DC amp on/off switch on one of the output wires by the converter. Open the switch, set the voltage with voltmeter at the converter terminals, then close the switch.

Your 100 amper is going to pull some serious VA from your generator or any stick house 15a circuit on shore power. A 2000w inverter gen will not be able to run that 100 amper doing 100amps at 14.8v output. I don't know if a 2200w gen would be able to. Maybe. It seems 2200 is the new 2000 if you are in the market, so don't get the old 2000 for sure.

I suspect you never used the boost button on the 68100, since it was tucked away, so all you ever saw was 13.6v at whatever amps on that one 12v battery, so 120v supply was not a problem. Now you will get some initial 14.6 for about 30 minutes no matter what in the auto mode, so you need to go to adj mode to reduce that initial voltage if need be to not pop a supply breaker.

If the 100amper is too much for your 120v supply, you will have to dial down its voltage until it will run. Jack up the voltage later after the battery is more full and then the 120v supply should be able to run it and the battery will get a dose of the needed 14.x for at least the end part of the absorption stage.