trikepilot wrote:
Because you use yours as a portable unit I like the idea of the strain relief on the cables. In a permanent installation replacing my 6345, I could get by without it. I wonder if I were to solder the exposed wires together into a tinned strip and insert that into lugs. Would the solder melt with enough amperage flowing through the wires? I have used a propane torch before to solder brass lugs onto a jumper cable wire when I was using the eyelets instead of clamps at one end. They never failed but I could have just been lucky. Last thing I want to do is burn the MH to the ground.
The cables I have are pretty beefy. Designed to jump start a diesel from a vehicle parked behind it. 30 ft long and probably 12 to 15 lbs of copper, brass, and insulation. Thanks for the pictures BFL13.
I have seen stranded cables with the ends tinned like that to go in set-screw terminals. Not sure you need to do that for a better grip, but can't hurt I guess. would keep stray strands poking out and touching the other terminal--I used the tape for that.
Terminal and wire will only get hot if the connection is loose. No idea how hot it has to get to melt any solder. The other end of the set screw terminals is bolted to the circuit board and solder is on that to hold the wires that run through those reverse polarity fuses.
The chassis ground lug should be used with the deck mount when actually installed as shown in the second photo in the OP here back when I had it that way.
http://forums.trailerlife.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26237237.cfmYou don't need that with a lower portion replacement because its metal case touches the main power centre metal case and that is grounded to the frame already with the 120v bare copper wire to the 30a main breaker and also with some 12v grounds to the frame.
Those blue wires in the photo were store bought #1 gauge--I got 106 amps as what the 100amper did.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/switch-to-starter-battery-cable-1-gauge-0111088p.html#.Uz2wRGdOVjo