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opnspaces's avatar
opnspaces
Navigator III
Jan 20, 2018

What gauge wire from batteries to inverter

I am going to install an inverter in my trailer and am curious about what gauge wire I need to run from the batteries. To be honest I really don't have an application or device I want to run off it. I just want to do it for the "because I can" factor. I plan to mount the inverter against the front wall of the trailer so I don't imagine more that ten feet of DC wiring from batteries to inverter. Below is what I have to work with since I already own them.

A Zamp 2000 watt pure sine model ZP-2000ps. What gauge wire would I need to get optimal use from this? (Figure 10 feet from battery to inverter). This is the one I'll probably use as this is what I had in mind when I bought it.

or

a Zamp 600 watt pure sine model ZP-600ps. What gauge wire would I need if I decided to install this model instead. (Figure 10 feet from battery to inverter).



Is voltage drop a concern in this kind of setup, or is that mostly a concern with solar installs?

Thanks

48 Replies

  • opnspaces wrote:
    A Zamp 2000 watt pure sine model ZP-2000ps. What gauge wire would I need to get optimal use from this? (Figure 10 feet from battery to inverter).


    By optimal use I'm guessing you actually mean "maximum" - if so, a 2000 watt 12 vdc input inverter would pull ~ 167 amps at full load. :E If you're "guessing" 10' from the battery to the inverter that means a 20' run so this chart tells us to carry that load over that length of cable you would need to use at least really heavy 0 AWG cable, better still 2/0 AWB. You really want to do this when you have no specific need in mind? :)



    Case in point - I mounted a 1000 watt PSW inverter in my trailer's front pass through storage compartment and have 6' of 4 gauge running out to the tongue mounted battery. For full load this isn't heavy enough wire gauge but the most I ever pull at any given time with this inverter is no more than 70 amps. You might consider what you really intend to use this inverter for, then wire it for that application.

    Some use an inverter "whole house", meaning the inverter's output feeds the entire trailer, either via a transfer switch or simply by plugging the trailer's main service cable into it. I did that myself initially but later wired in dedicated duplex receptacles in key locations inside the trailer, and one outside, so I can access the inverter output directly by simply plugging into those receptacles. Pics are in my gallery. :)
  • I'm using a 400 amp Class T fuse. They call it a catastrophic failure fuse. I went class T because I wasn't comfortable with the interruption rating for the much cheaper ANL fuse. Somewhere I calculated a catastrophic discharge of my battery bank could be beyond the interrupt rating of ANL.

    My Magnum manual recommends doubled 4/0 cabling for longer runs, but they really discourage it.
  • Be aware that 10' from batteries to inverter is 20' of wire when you are calculating gauge needed.

    Those little electrons have to make the round-trip!
  • Some of us have gone to 24 or 48 volts to lessen line loss and use thinner, more flexible wire.
    opnspaces wrote:
    Is voltage drop a concern in this kind of setup, or is that mostly a concern with solar installs?
    Not sure what you mean there...solar wiring is a different subject.
  • Look up the manuals for some other 2000w inverters and see what they say you need, then do that with yours.

    Hint: A 2000w inverter loaded to 2000 will pull 200 amps from the battery bank (use the "divide by 10 rule" which also covers efficiency losses)

    EG, I have a 2000w inverter that says to use a 500amp ANL fuse and 1/0 wire up to 6 ft and 3/0 wire up to 10 ft. Over 10 ft they say to call their tech support.

    Other 2000 w inverter specs say use a 250 fuse instead of that 500 but apparently the 500 is to cover for the inverter's surge rating of 4000w. Anyway you do know you need to fuse for at least 200 amps on the wire.

    On 2000 vs 600, note that the 2000 will run everything (some one at a time) like your microwave, toaster, kettle, etc. The 600 is too small for many things but will do the television etc. For running the fridge on 120v going down the road, people have learned that a 600 is marginal for that too--a 1000 does work for that.
  • 10 feet is 5 feet too many for a 2000 watt in my humble opinion. Remember round trip, whatever your wire length is, double it, since you have a positive and negative wire, and the electricity flows through both. Voltage drop is a very real concern especially under heavy load.

    For my 2800 watt 4000 watt surge inverter I used 4-ought #0000 welding cable, 12 feet total round trip which includes 6 feet for the cable linking four batteries in parallel.

    Keep your DC cables very short and use an extension cord at the output to get AC where you need it.

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