What generator size works best?

With 5,000 watts, you might still have to watch out if you try to run the microwave when the A/C is on and trying to charge the batteries.

On my DP the Onan 7.5KW will run both 15,000 A/Cs, the microwave, the 60A charger and other stuff. From my control panel, it looks like there's still plenty of room to run a hair dryer at the same time, but I haven't tried it yet.

The simplest thing is to go to your nearest tool / equipment rental place and rent a 5,000W for a couple hours. If they have a large yard where you won't be in the way, take your TT and try it their yard

Bill

30 amp RV? 4,000 watts max rated. But honestly I would either sweat it out or find some hookups.

I have the 13.5k AC as well and the Champion 3100 inverter runs it just fine with the hard start capacitor. I do have to shut down the AC if I want to run the micro, but we rarely use the micro anyway. BTW I do have propane heat.
RichH

My generator needs is only 2KW and I could probably get away with just a 1KW Generator to run my trailer features when off the power grid.

When I was first confronted with camping off the power grid I too wanted to go the Generator way to power up the whole trailer.

This was not an option here on the East side of the US where most public campgrounds all have generator run time restrictions in place. Hardly any public places allowed the use of the generator after 8PM as well.

Only the few dispersed camping locations which are very rare here on the East side of the US allowed the use of the Generator whenever you wanted to use it.

With this in mind I ended up beefing up the trailer to run efficiently from the Battery banks with the thought in mind to accommodate my largest 12VDC power needs between the hours of 6PM and 11PM and then re-charge the batteries the next morning at 8AM when allowed running my 2KW generator to power up my smart mode converter/charger setup.

Following the rules of never depleting the designed battery bank below the 50% charge state this method gives me a 90% charged battery bank each day to run my 12VDC needs for the next day/night run off the batteries. My batteries will produce a good 99% of their rated power performance with a 90% charge state.

With this method I can do the 50% to 90% charge routine at least 12-14 days days before doing any damage to the battery banks...

Since this allows me to re-charge the batteries in a quick three hour generator run time period I can fall into the generator run time restriction times without too much difficulty just about everywhere we camp here on the East side of the US.

I have been doing this routine here on the East side of the US since 2009 and still running three of my original four batteries purchased in 2008. I lost one battery right due to using a non smart mode converter/charger unit and boiled out the battery fluids which killed one one my four batteries in late 2008.

It is all routine now and we get to do just about everything we normally would do at a Shore Power location except of course with no air conditioning or with the using of the high wattage microwave unit. Also camping in cold part of the season sometimes gets a bit exciting when wanting to use the propane furnace all night long running the high wattage 12VDC furnace blower.

I am doing all of this with just a 255AH capacity Battery Bank and of course can do more by adding a larger capacity battery bank..

My camping off the power grid experiences here on the East side of the US...


Roy Ken

I use (2) Yamaha 2000s. I like the fact I can run only one unit when I dont need the A/C. When I need AC I can run them in parallel. I also installed a hard start kit in my 13.5 AC unit. It makes it easier on the start up. The other nice thing with using 2 generators is that they are easier to carry and store.

Suggest that you go to:

link
hondapowerequipment.com


Find wattage calculator to determine which generator will meet your needs.

For my Cedar Creek with 2-15,000BTU AC's.

Depending on weather, where I'm going, and how long a stay I bring along either a Honda 6500is mounted in a 4'X 6'trailer towed behind the 5er, or 2-Honda 2000's paralleled together in the pickup bed.


C.B.

Camping last week, saw a TT with an ONAN 4000 MicroQuiet and a 6-gallon plastic boat tank mounted at the rear. I didn't notice if it was on a cargo carrier or something more substantial. If I had to guess they'd tied that "generator shelf" into the trailer's actual frame.
If your RV is set up for 30-amp shore tie service, then a 4000-watt RV GenSet (put that in Bold, All Caps because that's important, more to follow on that) will provide the same power as shore tie. If you aren't happy with 30A shore tie then a 4000 GenSet will disappoint too. Problem is, if you go to a 5500-watt RV GenSet, you'll have to do some wiring mods to take advantage of the extra power. The kind of 5500 you get can matter too. The ones I remember, actually output a 30-amp supply AND a 20-amp. If that's the case, you don't get anything more out of the main outlet of a 5500 than you got out of a 4000.
My words RV GenSet are important because I want to remind you of one of the notes above: Many/Most "jobsite gennys" are rated at their one 240-VAC outlet. And that's Two 120-VAC circuits (often referred to as "legs"). That means you can run two 120-VAC loads but CANNOT combine them at 120-VAC. 4000-watt example: RV GenSet will deliver 4000-watt on ONE connection, like your shore tie. 4000-watt jobsite genny will deliver 2000-watt on a pair of connections at 120-VAC. Unless you can split up and balance your RV load, two 2000-watt legs don't do you much good. AND, 2000-watt is marginal for 13500 A/C...

I have and use a Yamaha 2400 inverter generator. It would run the 13.5k air on my old rig, and we'll soon see if it will run the 15k air on my new rig. As long as I don't have multiple high load items running at once, it does all I need.

Like others said, there are two ways to go about this:

1 - find out what will do the minimum of what you need with a smaller weight, footprint,noise and cost.
2- get the biggest thing that you can find that will run everything at once that will be big, heavy, louder and expensive.

I preferred #1 and have no issue turning off the AC if I want to use the Microwave. I hope it works as well with the new trailer, but I'll know pretty soon.

If you will be running the air 24/7 I would be looking at Honda with available extended run fuel tank.

I originally missed the "ALL electric" comment. Sorry about that.

Maybe you can explain that a bit more. What size rig? A class B all electric is probably a bit different than a class A diesel pusher all electric.

Electric only on fridge and heat?