Forum Discussion
- C_B_Explorer
Larryect wrote:
I originally missed the "ALL electric" comment. Sorry about that.
Maybe you can explain that a bit more. What size rig? A class B all electric is probably a bit different than a class A diesel pusher all electric.
Electric only on fridge and heat?
Larry I think you also missed that he wants to power a Travel Trailer not a motor home.
C.B. - LarryectExplorerOkay, still need more info though.....
- LJAZExplorerI have a 21 ft travel trailer w/13500 btu AC. I use a Honda 3000 to run the AC and pretty much everything else except the microwave. If i want to use the micro I flip the AC off for the few minutes it takes to heat food. Nice thing about the 3000 is that it will run the AC all night on single tank of gas in Arizona temps. Downside is it's heavy at 130 lbs. You could do the same thing with 2 paralleled 2000's, but it won't run all night unless you also get a fuel tank extender setup.
- 2oldmanExplorer II
Larryect wrote:
I've asked about that.. but so far no answer. I don't know what an 'all electric' trailer is.
I originally missed the "ALL electric" comment. Sorry about that. - eocamperExplorerI have a 2015 Grey Wolf 26bhe. The bhe stands for bunk house electric.
I opted for this type of trailer for a couple of reasons.
1. It sat on the lot for several months, which was a great negotiating tool when i purchased. Evidently people don't want all electric.
2. Being all electric I do not have propane to mess with or wonder if I will run out. We rarely used the propane on our last 2 tt. DW makes breakfast on an electric griddle. For lunch/dinner I'll make something on the BBQ pit or we use the griddle. We also have a hot plate if needed and only used it to make my brother instant coffee once. I drink the real stuff.
It has an electric heat strip that takes the chill out and we use an electric heater if needed.
And the WH is both electric/gas with ONLY the electric connected.
So ALL electric with no gas. Because of this I have a 50 amp connection. The reason I feel of need a generator around 5k watts.
I am completely satisfied with my purchase with the exception of the bathroom. It is a little small. That has nothing to do with being all electric. - 2oldmanExplorer II
eocamper wrote:
Actually, 50a power is 10,000 watts.
So ALL electric with no gas. Because of this I have a 50 amp connection. The reason I feel of need a generator around 5k watts.
You can see the downside to all electric when you're not hooked up. You've not yet mentioned about batteries and inverter, so I'm still in the dark on that. Dry camping is real nice having an inverter...the job for the generator is mainly battery charging.
Any 5kw generator I'm aware of is noisy as all get out, so, as suggested earlier, I'd go with a 3kw Honda. If you're made of money get two and parallel them.
I don't know what's connected on the 2nd leg of your 50a service. That's usually another air. An electric stove and oven are really going to consume power. - 50a changes a bit. Now you get to look out for 120v vs split phase 120/240v service. Larger generators tend to be 120/240 volt output. So with 120/240 you really need 3000w per side or 6000 watts. If you go smaller (4000w?) make sure is has full wattage at 120 volts so you can use an adapter to feed both sides.
- JiminDenverExplorer IIWith the solar, batteries and inverter I am converting our bunk house to run off electric as much as we can. We cook, make coffee, heat water, use a A/C and I am working on the fridge. We even use a small 200 watt heater in the bathroom to take the chill off early instead of running the furnace.
So except for heat I don't see why you couldn't do the same by replacing the solar with a generator. Run the generator for the big loads and charging, batteries and a inverter the rest of the time. I worked out having A/C on solar in a limited fashion, that was said to be impossible. Someone else will have to work out having electric heat. - eocamperExplorer
2oldman wrote:
I don't know what's connected on the 2nd leg of your 50a service. That's usually another air. An electric stove and oven are really going to consume power.
Only thing I can think of is AC, Microwave, outlets, lights and water pump on one side and electric WH, heater/heat strip and maybe tank heaters on the other.
I really don't know much about the inverter other than it works. I'm taking it out this weekend. I'll check it out.
As for battery, it just a basic deep cell battery. Nothing special.
I don't plan on running off the generator like I am hooked up to shorepower. Mainly to sleep with the AC running, a few lights and the water pump. During the day I would open the windows and run the water pump off the battery.
As for the noise. Where we would be staying if anyone else is around they would be running one too and the sound of the waves and wind will drown out the noise.
I read a 3k watt generator would run an AC but could burn the compressor when it kicks on, that's mainly why I am looking at bigger.
My buddy has a 5er he runs off a 35k generator and says it works fine but has to turn off the AC to run the micro. - 2oldmanExplorer II
eocamper wrote:
Many of us have 2- 2Kw Hondas. I do. When paralleled they're run your air with no problems. And if you don't need all that power just use one.
I read a 3k watt generator would run an AC but could burn the compressor when it kicks on, thas mainly why I am looking at bigger.
They're quiet (quieter) and should last you a lot of years with proper care. Most people can carry one without breaking their backs.eocamper wrote:
Do you run your refridge going down the road?
I really don't know much about the inverter other than it works.
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