What is the AGM Wall?
Mex described the "wall" one way, and LY describes it another way. LY quote: "My TPPL agm responds so well to the high amp recharge from a well depleted state that when I notice performance loss...
Forum Discussion
Junk meters can cause this. This is exactly why I do not trust at face value supermarket grade shunts and three for a dollar eBay ammeters.
Verify your shunt and meter by using a decent hand held muti-meter set to millivolts and then comparing it by checking the voltage drop across the shunt, then verify voltage of your panel meter.
I had a bunch of cruising sailboat customers freak out when they saw me totally discredit their very expensive Cruising Equipment Co. panel meters. That is exactly when their "E Meter" superseded the panel meter.
Wall does not mean the armor belt off the USS Missouri. Especially when dealing with weirdo variants of AGM technology. If your NEW FrankenAGM likes to stop at .67 amperes at 14.40 volts then that's where the "wall" is.
And correct about the heat. No heating should be allowed to take place once the battery reaches max charge resistance. Do tweak the voltage. If it bounces then you have verification # 2.
Have you performed a capacity test? Or verified new versus old impedance values? Old batteries do not act like new batteries. There's the rub.
The trick is to get the manufacturer to issue valid test and troubleshooting values for your particular AGM battery. This is like pulling teeth. They regress into used-car salesmen grade hyperbole.
But first get your house in order by verifying your yardstick.
Verify your shunt and meter by using a decent hand held muti-meter set to millivolts and then comparing it by checking the voltage drop across the shunt, then verify voltage of your panel meter.
I had a bunch of cruising sailboat customers freak out when they saw me totally discredit their very expensive Cruising Equipment Co. panel meters. That is exactly when their "E Meter" superseded the panel meter.
Wall does not mean the armor belt off the USS Missouri. Especially when dealing with weirdo variants of AGM technology. If your NEW FrankenAGM likes to stop at .67 amperes at 14.40 volts then that's where the "wall" is.
And correct about the heat. No heating should be allowed to take place once the battery reaches max charge resistance. Do tweak the voltage. If it bounces then you have verification # 2.
Have you performed a capacity test? Or verified new versus old impedance values? Old batteries do not act like new batteries. There's the rub.
The trick is to get the manufacturer to issue valid test and troubleshooting values for your particular AGM battery. This is like pulling teeth. They regress into used-car salesmen grade hyperbole.
But first get your house in order by verifying your yardstick.
