After all of the technical jargon has been spewed, it boils down to this.
1. Look at the outlet and see how many pins it has
2. Buy the power cord that matches the outlet
3. Follow the stove's instructions on wiring the power cord you bought. It will tell the way to wire each.
For those who say GET A 4 PIN OUTLET or PULL NEW WIRE, they are buying a new stove. They are not replacing house wiring. The 3 pin outlet was code when it was installed, and grandfathered into existing code. There is absolutely NO need to replace the outlet or wiring. Buy the correct power cord, wire the stove correctly, and you are both safe AND legal.
This excerpt from the code quoted above:
larry cad wrote:
Exception: For existing branch-circuit installations only
where an equipment grounding conductor is not present in
the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges,
wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units,
clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of
the circuit for these appliances shall be permitted to be
connected to the grounded circuit conductor if all the following
conditions are met.
(1) The supply circuit is 120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire;
or 208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wyeconnected
system.
(2) The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG
copper or 8 AWG aluminum.
(3) The grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded
conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE serviceentrance
cable and the branch circuit originates at the
service equipment.
(4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of
the equipment are bonded to the equipment.
Explicitly states that you are good with using the 3 pin outlet with a 3 pin power cord as long as you follow the stove's instructions on how to wire the stove to the 3 pin cord.
