Whats Zapping my inverter

pianotuna wrote:
When plugging in there is inrush current. If the capacitors are discharged, from the inverter not being plugged in for some time, it will be greater.

This.

Has your inverter been disconnected from 12v when you use it? When mine is, there is a huge spark when reconnecting.

N-Trouble wrote:
Mystery solved...

Yes I agree 20A fuse is undersized. Believe it came with a 30A installed. Regardless, I want to get to the bottom of what on the trailer is pulling 20+A. Went through turning on each breaker individually and it was the 30A breaker going to the AC unit. The thermostat was set to “cool”. Interestimg that even without it trying to turn on its still pulling juice. Thermostat is set to 70* and trailer temp this morning was 60*

I hate to be argumentative but this is the first I have heard of an A/C being on a 30 amp breaker. Check you panel against the schedule. 30 amp is the main breaker of a 30 amp service. A/C should be on a 20 amp. 20 amp = #12 wire. 30 amp = #10 wire. 30 amp is overload for an RV A/C unit. It's very thoughtful your t-stat is causing an electric draw.

N-Trouble wrote:
Mystery solved...

Yes I agree 20A fuse is undersized. Believe it came with a 30A installed. Regardless, I want to get to the bottom of what on the trailer is pulling 20+A. Went through turning on each breaker individually and it was the 30A breaker going to the AC unit. The thermostat was set to “cool”. Interestimg that even without it trying to turn on its still pulling juice. Thermostat is set to 70* and trailer temp this morning was 60*

And this is why I recommend wiring it into the branch circuit you need. At least for me it must work even for those not as adept at electrical issues.

Mystery solved...

Yes I agree 20A fuse is undersized. Believe it came with a 30A installed. Regardless, I want to get to the bottom of what on the trailer is pulling 20+A. Went through turning on each breaker individually and it was the 30A breaker going to the AC unit. The thermostat was set to “cool”. Interestimg that even without it trying to turn on its still pulling juice. Thermostat is set to 70* and trailer temp this morning was 60*

N-Trouble wrote:
Correct but poorly worded

Yeah.

2oldman wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
You don't run the inverter from the shore cordYou power the shore cord and RV from the inverter

That's what he meant.

Correct but poorly worded

naturist wrote:
Um, wait a minute, when you plug your shore power cord into the 300 watt inverter, you are also plugging in your RV's converter, which, if it thinks your house battery needs charging, will attempt to do so. Most RV converters draw something like 600 watts or more in the beginning stages of charging a battery, which would overload and shut down a 300 watt inverter. If your house battery were fully charged, this would not happen, but if it is down a bit, it would, accounting for the intermittant nature of the problem.

Yes but read my original post. Breaker for converter is OFF anytime I use the inverter.

Hi all,

It sounds to me as if the OP needs a slow blow fuse or a DC breaker. My personal choice would be a breaker.

naturist,

From the Op's first post:

"I’ve got s small 300W PSW I run off of my shore power cord. I know before using I shut off the converter breaker, put fridge to gas, and make sure nothing high wattage is plugged into an outlet.

Despite checking off all three of these I ocassionally blow fuses when I go to plug it in. What am I missing?"

naturist wrote:
Um, wait a minute, when you plug your shore power cord into the 300 watt inverter, you are also plugging in your RV's converter, which, if it thinks your house battery needs charging, will attempt to do so. Most RV converters draw something like 600 watts or more in the beginning stages of charging a battery, which would overload and shut down a 300 watt inverter. If your house battery were fully charged, this would not happen, but if it is down a bit, it would, accounting for the intermittant nature of the problem.

Um, wait a minute, when you plug your shore power cord into the 300 watt inverter, you are also plugging in your RV's converter, which, if it thinks your house battery needs charging, will attempt to do so. Most RV converters draw something like 600 watts or more in the beginning stages of charging a battery, which would overload and shut down a 300 watt inverter. If your house battery were fully charged, this would not happen, but if it is down a bit, it would, accounting for the intermittant nature of the problem.